Author Topic: HIGHEST MILEAGE (Read 9543 times)

sambaman · **Reply #30 on:** 19 November, 2020, 08:27:40 AM

My 08 had done 70k miles and had no issues (except 3 stator changes: whatever) when I swapped it for a high mileage blackbird. That was too much bike for me so I powered down to a 650 Trandalp (hmmmm nope), then a beautiful blue 4th gen VFR that I loved but it hurt my back!. Just bought another biffer, an 06 with 40k and intending to see how many miles it willl do. Great engine: great to be back.

Sabes · **Reply #31 on:** 27 January, 2021, 06:08:05 PM

Originally Posted by frank einstein

Curious as to how many miles/kilometers some of you have put on your "Biffer". Would be interesting to see who has the highest to report and what year your bike is. I guess I am really trying to find out just how long the engine in this bike can run. I am a newbie and my bike only has 9000 kms.

I did 47,000 miles on my Mk 1 biffer. Got the Mk2 now and that has 19K on it.

Mark

greybeard 2 · **Reply #32 on:** 28 January, 2021, 09:26:30 AM

Hi only 30K miles on a MK11 so far ,self serviced ,no problems. I have a mate who put 90 odd K miles on a Mk1,self serviced and for a laugh used to go round dealers asking for a trade in price, and then feign indignant outrage at the offers .

Art · **Reply #33 on:** 28 January, 2021, 05:10:42 PM

The original question was raised to try to find out just how long the engine in this bike can run. Well its a Honda in a low state of tune so 30,000, 40,000 or even 50,000 miles is neither here nor there. Its the 75,000+ milers we need to hear about...

A 90,000 miler serviced by the home mechanic is good to hear of, any chance of a detailed service history?

Anyone know of any critical engine failures and the causes?

Crispy · **Reply #34 on:** 28 January, 2021, 10:42:45 PM

Thousand CC’s are used on cars to lug a ton (1000kgs) of weight around. The Biffer weighs 220kg dry and it’s a understressed engine designed by Honda. Been watching Harry Cole’s Greatest Motorcycle Rides on the telly for the past few weeks and see plenty of Triumph, Harleys and Norton’s running that were made decades ago. I’m getting into trucks these days, they only reach about 2000rpm and clock nearly a million miles and still sell for about 5k.

greybeard 2 · **Reply #35 on:** 29 January, 2021, 10:30:09 AM

90k plus mileage servicing. HI two old codgers here .WE do our own servicing and always have done. We have stuck the same schedule for years so here goes. Oil every 5k miles, valves and plugs double what the book says. 2yrs brake fluid, coolant, fork oil. 3yrs re grease head bearings/rear suspension. Brakes cleaned once a year, change pads as and when, same for chain sprockets ,tyres. If it runs ok, starts when hot leave it alone, if it isn't broke don't fix it!. Keep it clean and know your bike. Most of our mileage is two up touring ,both at home and abroad. My bikes have never been near a dealer once out of warranty, not that I buy new. Had a crap experience 40 yrs ago that was the cause of my only touring breakdown, apart from a couple of punctures. Never had another bike with inner tubes again! It works for me so I'm not going to argue with any one , to old to bother.

FLIZ · **Reply #36 on:** 29 January, 2021, 01:16:51 PM

greybeard 2

STrep · **Reply #37 on:** 13 February, 2021, 11:15:55 AM

Originally Posted by greybeard 2

90k plus mileage servicing. HI two old codgers here .WE do our own servicing and always have done. We have stuck the same schedule for years so here goes. Oil every 5k miles, valves and plugs double what the book says. 2yrs brake fluid, coolant, fork oil. 3yrs re grease head bearings/rear suspension. Brakes cleaned once a year, change pads as and when, same for chain sprockets ,tyres. If it runs ok, starts when hot leave it alone, if it isn't broke don't fix it!. Keep it clean and know your bike. Most of our mileage is two up touring ,both at home and abroad. My bikes have never been near a dealer once out of warranty, not that I buy new. Had a crap experience 40 yrs ago that was the cause of my only touring breakdown, apart from a couple of punctures. Never had another bike with inner tubes again! It works for me so I'm not going to argue with any one , to old to bother.

Great information

Art · **Reply #38 on:** 13 February, 2021, 01:38:52 PM

Thanks for you're input greybeard. I like your 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' attitude and I'll add to that 'if it's still serviceable don't replace it'!

I'm another old codger with a grey beard too. I've been servicing vehicles since I was 15 years old. When servicing other folks vehicles I've followed the vehicle manufacturers schedule unless the customer has advised otherwise. For my own vehicles the service schedules are more or less to the vehicle manufacturers schedule, the exceptions being where the service item manufacturer recommends otherwise. For example, in the case of my CBF 1000A-6...

Engine oil and filter every 8,000 miles as per Honda, or every two years as per Motul, whichever comes first.
Spark plugs every 32,000 miles with CR8EH9's fitted or every 48,000 miles with CR8HIX9's fitted as per NGK.
Coolant every 5 years as per Triple QX, using their red extended life product.
Brake/clutch fluid when the moisture content approaches 3% as per DOT4 specifications.
Drive chain and sprockets as a kit when the chain has stretched to 1½% as per DID (and then some, DID recommend 1%).
Brake pads at <2mm of friction material as per Brenta.
Front fork service and fork oil change every 10 years or sooner if leaking, other repair required.

My CBF is only half way to 100,000 miles and I don't feel inclined to replace it just because of that so I'm watching this thread for servicing/parts failures vs high mileage comparisons.

phil1000f · **Reply #39 on:** 18 February, 2021, 12:42:25 PM

I have a Mk1 2006 non-ABS which, although is not quite the dizzying heights of mileage you are after, is now up to 50,000 miles of commuting. It is ridden Monday to Friday all year round in all weathers so I have the added “benefit” of putting up with a lot of cruddy weather and the maintenance that goes with it. I brought it in immaculate condition, a year old with 1,000 miles on the clock from a lovely chap from Blackpool. I specifically wanted a Bombay Orange non-ABS so was prepared to travel and took a train from Kent to get it with £5000 in my pocket! That’s the longest journey it’s ever been on as the kids arrived and I now get my biking kick from my commute.

I’m a mechanic by trade and do all my servicing/repairs myself (except the first one which I had done at a dealer to keep up the warranty). At a minimum I change the oil & filter every year regardless of mileage. I then replace/check mileage items when I get there. The fluid change intervals I stick to. I have kept meticulous records being ever so slightly OCD inclined, so thought I might add to this topic. Hopefully, you can stay awake long enough!

Tyres – Eventually ditched the BT56’s at 7k, they were dreadful in the wet and cold. Tried the BT021’s and although good, tried Michelin Pilot Road and have never looked back. Phenomenal grip wet and dry, excellent feedback and over 10,000 miles between changes.

Battery and stator – 1st battery at 10k. The cold killed it so brought an Optimate for use over winter. Didn’t have to change it again until 40k when the stator packed up. Brought a non-OEM stator and has been fine. I always buy Yuasa batteries.

Head bearings – First changed at 17k and went with taper. For some reason they never lasted and went through two more sets from different suppliers before fitting OEM ball race at 30k and haven’t even had to adjust them since.

Gearchange shaft bearing – Always get a lot of play in this little needle roller bearing. First change at 10k and again at 23k. Decided to stop there as it never actually seemed to make any difference to gear changes.

Rear suspension – Lower shock pivot seized up at 32K. Took the opportunity to remove rear swingarm, grease serviceable bushes, renew u/s bushes and fit a Hagon shock. Also fitted a shock sock and added a rubber shield over the lower shock pivot to stop the grime getting directly on it.

Front suspension – Renewed leaking fork seals at 27k with OEM parts and that’s it.

Front brakes – Stripped and cleaned yearly. I’m almost a 100% front brake person (from my racing days!) which meant I got through OEM pads every 5-10k. Last change I have fitted Brembo’s and they have lasted 10k so far. Disc’s are still original.

Rear brakes – Because I don’t use it that much, they seem to cause me more trouble. I’ve gone through 2 or 3 sets of pads regardless of use and changed the disc at 37k with Brembo.

Frame – Holding up well. The bar that goes across the front by the downpipes has rotted but haven’t gotten around to replacing it yet.

Valve clearances – Checked at prescribed first 16k interval and all within spec. I won’t be checking them again.

Chain & Sprockets – Used with a Scottoiler and have changed them twice.

Plugs – Changed to Iridium at 33k so won’t need replacing until 73k.

Air filter – Changed to K&N at 33k, clean and oil at 73k though may do this earlier.

Exhaust – Headers are still holding in there despite winter riding. Only replaced two exhaust clamps that rotted.

And that’s it. What I have had to do is IMO not a lot and mainly general stuff that normally goes wrong with a bike ridden all year round (stator aside). It still blindingly quick when it needs to be but pootles around effortlessly most of the time. I keep thinking about changing it but after owning a VFR750, CBR600 and testing a VTR1000, the CBF just does it all so well I can’t bear to part with it. Even when I was unceremoniously knocked off in 2017, I kept the bike and repaired it with decent used parts at a fraction of the write-off cost. I can see the bike outlasting me, especially the engine. Honda engines well serviced will just keep going for years and years.

Stay safe everyone.