Recent Posts

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For Sale Board / R88CBF Number Plate
« Last post by ramiller on 30 November, 2019, 09:38:24 PM »
Thinking of selling my number plate, open to offers
Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up / Re: Front Fork lowers.
« Last post by edger on 30 November, 2019, 05:38:48 PM »
And you could chop and change between yellow gas pipe, blue water pipe ,white or  black
waste depending on your bike  :mfrlol:
Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: Instrument clear cover
« Last post by Art on 30 November, 2019, 08:35:58 AM »
Everything is available separately, just not from Mr Honda who lists the dashboard as an assembly. If all else fails there are plenty of breakers listing them on eBay from 75 to silly money.

I think you have to remove the nose fairing to access the dashboard cover securing screws which means that the side fairings have to be removed too. Once you've removed the dashboard securing screws a good tug then releases the centre securing pin. The dashboard will then be exposed for you to remove and play with, have fun.
Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up / Re: Front Fork lowers.
« Last post by Shed on 30 November, 2019, 08:30:07 AM »
Or, if you're on a tight budget and of a carefree persuasion, as seen on some trials bikes, get yourself a length of waste pipe cut it length-ways and slip it over the forks. 
Tidy.  :008: :028:

New Members / Re: Hello to all.
« Last post by Shed on 30 November, 2019, 08:21:24 AM »
 :401:  :730: :730:
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Chain and sprocket set
« Last post by Shed on 30 November, 2019, 08:20:35 AM »
*Originally Posted by adasel [+]
There is no visible wear on the gears. Possibly micrometric wear. Is the wear of gear too small to be visible, disrupting the chain?
I thought it would be possible to renew it as the second change set in time. Because it is very costly to change as set.

If they are damaged/worn as shown here, replace them. If not, don't bother.  :028:

4-21 - 4-25
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: No Hydraulic Clutch Pressure
« Last post by Shed on 30 November, 2019, 08:14:43 AM »
*Originally Posted by Fernie 66 [+]
they've recommended I keep the clutch lever depressed for the entire storage period, possibly until next April ??

 :027:  :151:  :157: What? 
In my (humble) opinion, any workshop suggesting such woeful advice is a clueless one, so ditch it and use another.
In fact, makes me think, when they have refilled it, have they actually put DOT4 fluid in there?!

Given that, in simple terms, you only have the clutch fluid reservoir with brake fluid & a few parts inside it, a clutch hose pipe with brake fluid in it, and down at the engine end the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder, and the slave cylinder piston O rings, and that's pretty much it. Not many suspects really. Strip all the parts and inspect/replace as necessary. Maybe even treat yourself to a reservoir kit & a new diaphragm and new DOT4 fluid. Is the hose itself and bleed nipple ok too? Even these two bits aren't much to replace if need be.

4-28 & 4-29


Not a specific recommendation, just examples:
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Chain and sprocket set
« Last post by Art on 29 November, 2019, 04:54:30 PM »
Of course its possible to just replace the drive chain, just not an economic option in the long term because the new chain will wear out before its time. Question - How have you determined the chain is in need of replacement? I ask because I'd expect the sprockets to wear at a faster rate than a well maintained chain.

The correct and in my opinion the only way to measure chain wear is to measure the chain while it is under tension. Do this by applying some tension to the upper chain run so that all slack is taken out of the lower chain run, then measure across the centres of 17 link pins on the lower chain run to determine chain stretch. A perfect out of the box CBF 1000 5/8" pitch drive chain such as the DID 530 VX should measure 254 mm across 17 link pins. The chain manufacturers service limit for drive chains is +1% stretch which means that a measurement in excess of 256.5 mm would indicate a replacement chain is due.

Visible wear on the sprockets (gears) is not always easy to assess. One trick is to make cardboard templates of the new sprockets for future wear comparisons. Cost of drive chain and sprocket kit is not so expensive if you shop around. At my last replacement (September 2016)  I got DID530VX G&B12ZB, JTF333.16, JTR302.43 chain & sprocket kit from Bike Speed UK for 84.95. eBay is your friend  :001:

At your own risk and assessment if the sprockets are showing little or no sign of wear and there are no issues with the drive chain such as binding, seized links, failed 'X' rings etc  I've been known to leave my chains a little longer to say 1% or even 1% stretch (257 or 258 mm across 17 pins) but you do this at your own risk of any future chain failure. If you're unclear between the difference in 'worn' and 'worn out' stick to the chain manufacturers service limit of 1% stretch (256.5 mm across 17 link pins).

Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up / Re: Front Fork lowers.
« Last post by Bifferman 2 on 29 November, 2019, 04:31:11 PM »
Hi Frankthebike

If you do go to the trouble of removing the forks and cleaning up/respraying the lowers (Rustoleum is the best colour match) then may I suggest you drain and replace the fork oil while you are at it.  As long as the fork seals are not leaking and hence no real need to replace those, you might be amazed at just what an improvement there is on your front end suspension.  When I replaced the head bearings on my 2007 MKI in 2017 I took the opportunity to replace the fork oil at the same time and I noticed that the fork oil levels were inconsistent L to R as well as quite a bit lower that I expected the level to be.  The annoying thing for me was that the fluid level was supposed to have been replaced in 2011 by the Honda Dealer at 'The Swan's annual service :084: .

FWIW, when you have resprayed the lower forks and they are all nice and shiny again, if you want to keep them that way, and as the lowers attract stone chips, why not periodically (more often if you ride in winter) rub some ACF50 on these areas and it will seriously keep them in better order than previously.

Bifferman 2 (AKA Bifferman)
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: No Hydraulic Clutch Pressure
« Last post by Bifferman 2 on 29 November, 2019, 04:06:51 PM »
Hi Fernie 66

It seems to me that your mechanic/shops idea of holding the clutch lever in for the whole of your winter might NOT be such a good idea as you will continuously be exerting pressure on the clutch springs :156: :084   It will also put permanent pressure on the large return spring in the slave cylinder (engine end) which can't be doing it any good either.  The master cylinder on the handlebar also has a weaker return spring in it and that would be under continuous compression as well :155: .

It rather sounds as if you do actually have a hydraulic fluid leak and, in the absence of an obvious leak my guess would be that it is in the oil rings within the slave cylinder.  I don't know for sure but I suspect that any small fluid seepage would be retained within the slave cylinder cover and/or possibly drain out via the lifter rod which runs from the slave cylinder LHS of engine, through the engine to the clutch itself, from there I am guessing BUT it will only take a VERY small amount of fluid loss to cause your symptoms.  Not having had to strip down my master cylinder I can not be sure but I would have thought that yoy would see a small leak around that area of the handlebar if there was one.  Out of interest, you say that the fluid was 'topped up' before bleeding, do you know just how much the flupd had dropped in the resevoir? 

If you are happy with topping up the clutch fluid and bleeding the system, which is a simple job, then fine I suppose :155: but clearly there is an underlying reason for the lack of hydraulic compression.  Would you leave this alone if it was an issue with the brakes at the end of Winter ?  and just a thought, when was your brake fluid completely bled and replaced ?  Have you downloaded the MK1 Workshop Manual - chapter 10 is where to go for matters clutch.

I am a bit out of touch with the Biffer having sold mine two years ago but even though I can't recall this issue having raised it's head previously it may be worth doing a thorough search of the clutch and transmission section on the forum.  The search facility is only so so and quite often it will not throw up a similar issue but you can use Google to search the forum with greater success.  Richardcbf is the top man for searching on here using Google and I am sure that he wrote aa how to do it on one of the threads so you could search for that as well.

Bifferman 2 (AKA Bifferman)

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