CBF1000

CBF1000 => Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up => Topic started by: Robo on 07 October, 2015, 08:18:59 PM

Title: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 07 October, 2015, 08:18:59 PM
Some have asked for this...

There are many ways to do this and there is a Manual to help you out.

But this is how I replace my Fork oil.

The tools needed are .

5mm Allen key.
8mm socket/spanner .
8mm Allen key.
12mm socket/spanner.
14mm socket/spanner.
22mm socket/spanner.
24mm socket/spanner.
Tape measure with a bit of insulating tape.
Torch.
Rubber hammer.
Bucket.

PLEASE NOTE my bike is stripped down for on going work. You can do all this with the bike untouched

The first thing to do is to loosen the top fork nut. 24MM spanner/socket.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i58.tinypic.com/2eg7lmq.jpg)

Loosen both the bottom clamps each side. 12mm spanner/socket

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i57.tinypic.com/x2l9ia.jpg)

Then loosen the wheel axle nut but don’t remove it.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i59.tinypic.com/2zf7pth.jpg)

Now make the bike safe so when you remove the front end it doesn’t topple over. I use a few bricks and a bit of wood, a jack under the exhausts or weighing the rear end will do also, what ever you have or feel happy with.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i60.tinypic.com/2s8sg0n.jpg)

Unbolt and remove the calipers mounts 12mm socket/spanner. My ones came off without the need to remove the pads but if you need to remove the pads they are held in with the 8mm pad pin at the bottom of the caliper.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i61.tinypic.com/jim4vm.jpg)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i58.tinypic.com/sy001g.jpg)

Don’t let the brakes hang down on the brake pipes. Tie them up, hang them from the mirrors/bars. My bike is stripped down without fairing Etc, so I hung my ones here. you also need to remove the brake pipes from the rear of the forks mounted on the mudguard, 8mm socket/spanner. I cable tie the right side bolt in situ just to keep the two brake pipes together.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i58.tinypic.com/2exqb04.jpg)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i61.tinypic.com/2e4hw77.jpg)

Once the nut is half way off I tap the axle through a little bit, remove the nut then I get a screwdriver on the other end and pull the axle free.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i62.tinypic.com/21llrq1.jpg)
(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i62.tinypic.com/w1dzid.jpg)

Now the wheel is removed, note which way the spacers are and don't loose them.
Remove the mudguard bolt 5mm socket/spanner.drop the mudguard down and pull forward through the forks. Discard the mudguard.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i60.tinypic.com/2my490.jpg)

Now all you will have are the forks hanging from the yokes.
Loosen the top Allen bolt and bottom bolt but don’t take them out of the yoke clamps.

8mm Allen key

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i57.tinypic.com/2j0bm92.jpg)

14mm socket/spanner

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i59.tinypic.com/256we42.jpg)

The forks will just drop out so don’t let them go. Do one at a time and hold the fork leg.
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..



Now you have the forks off and away from the bike.

Unscrew the top nut ,this should be loose as described earlier.
When you undo the 24mm nut and it is free from the fork stanchion it is held in by the fork damping rod.you have to place a 14mm spanner under the top cap to hold the damping rod nut. The top cap unscrews from the damping rod. A photo later will show you more.
Once you have the top nut off just turn the forks upside down and let the old oil drain into a bucket.sometimes it smells like cat piss.
I place a long extension bar in a vice and hang my forks from there.

Go have a cup of tea. It doesn’t take very long for all the oil to drain out, the longer the better.I left mine over night as I was doing about three jobs at once.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i62.tinypic.com/radfcz.jpg)

Clean all the parts what are below and put aside.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i57.tinypic.com/2cy2wci.jpg)

Now all the old oil has drained from the forks it’s time to fill them up with fresh new oil. I use this Rock oil 15w.

The OEM weight is 10w

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i59.tinypic.com/jz87mf.jpg)

1 liter is enough with a little to spare, but if you spill some you will need more.
This is what is left over from a 1 Liter bottle.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i59.tinypic.com/2uh1gd2.jpg)

To fill the oil up place the fork on a level surface, I use the floor.
Start to pour some in from the bottle.
When you think you may have enough oil, hold the bottom of the fork and pump up and down the stanchion(chrome leg) you will here the oil sucking, do it slow otherwise you will be spilling oil from the top.
I grab the damping rod to speed this up, the damping rod has tiny holes in it’s length and you can see the oil spurting from its holes when lifting it up and down.
You need all the air out...

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i61.tinypic.com/2urmog4.jpg)

Get the torch and look in the top of the fork. Wait until all the air has died down , you will see it fizzing if air is there.
Now I use my cut up tape measure. The fork level is 129mm from the top of the stanchion.
I have marked this with insulation tape on my level. There is enough tape so the level can rest/sit on the top of the stanchion.
Just take your time and get the level correct. You will see the top of the oil touching the bottom of the tape measure, you may have to remove oil or add oil. Just take your time.


(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i58.tinypic.com/2airkag.jpg)

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i62.tinypic.com/2r46cmr.jpg)


Once you have the correct amount of oil and you are happy its time to fit the spring, washer and spacer.

The OEM spring goes in tight coils to the bottom( first.) The parts laid out are in order of replacement with top cap to finish.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i57.tinypic.com/2cy2wci.jpg)   
……………………………………………………………………………………………………………...............................

Now I do a slight modification…

I don’t bother with progressive springs as I add a spacer, this is what was done before progressive springs were on the market.sort of old school.
My spacer is 23mm long with a 2mm washer. The same diameter as the Honda spacer sleeve.
I make these myself.

These fit on top of the Honda parts.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i61.tinypic.com/302v441.jpg)

Honda Parts.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i58.tinypic.com/ei4cj9.jpg)

Added parts on top of Honda Parts

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i62.tinypic.com/1zdpyq0.jpg)

Now its time to bolt up.

The OEM parts are easy to screw together. the top cap can be fitted just by using your hands.but you will need to tighten the Damper nut to the top cap by using the spanner as in picture.

Make sure you have the damper rod sticking out/up when you place the spacer and washer on.
If it falls down into the stanchion you can get it if your fingers are long and thin or use a pair of long nose pliers.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i60.tinypic.com/33vj0j9.jpg)

The top two parts under the top cap are the added bits,(my mod) but you can see the 14mm spanner under the top cap, this is the same way to undo it.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i57.tinypic.com/2l9s1zo.jpg)

With the added extra parts it is harder to bolt up, due to the lack of room. you need to place a lot of pressure on the top cap to get it into the stanchion thread and bolt it down.

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i60.tinypic.com/v6jfpe.jpg)

When you start to refit the bike its all the same in reverse but make sure you put the correct fork in the correct side of the yokes.. look at the inside of the fork leg.

Left or right..?

(https://images.weserv.nl/?url=i59.tinypic.com/2e0tny9.jpg)

Also put the wheel spacers in the correct sides.

Someones asked if doing this affects the handle bar alignment..  NO.

Hope it all makes sense. 

Remember this is my way.   :028:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Bifferman on 07 October, 2015, 09:08:16 PM
Brilliant :152:, even the cow pox has gone from the forks :002:.  Now all you have to do is put them back together again.

Thank you for doing this, I will find it very useful.

Andy
 :149:

p.s. Another favourite saved.
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: hondacbf on 07 October, 2015, 11:27:25 PM
Nice one Robo, thankyou for sharing this.
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Westbury71 on 08 October, 2015, 12:16:24 AM
 :460: :062: Superb set of instructions that I am certain I and many others will use! Thank you. 
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Montblanc on 08 October, 2015, 05:59:53 AM
Thanks Robo. Great technical article. Should be added to the collection.
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Biker Mike on 08 October, 2015, 06:14:06 AM
 :028:
 :460:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: richardcbf on 08 October, 2015, 08:50:36 AM
Nice one Robo  :028:
I wish I had the chance/need to do the mileage and a suitable place (and tools) to do more bike diy stuff....

How often (time) and/or at what mileage intervals do you find the need to change the fork oil and what are the symptoms?

How long should be allowed by the average person to do the job first time?

Would you do it for others (time permitting) at your place and if so how many beers (or pints equivalent) would you charge?
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Ardi on 08 October, 2015, 09:57:55 AM
Brilliant  :047: :047: :047:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 08 October, 2015, 10:59:56 AM
Thanks chaps, glad it is of some use and it all makes sense.

*Originally Posted by richardcbf [+]
Nice one Robo  :028:
I wish I had the chance/need to do the mileage and a suitable place (and tools) to do more bike diy stuff....

I have a large tool selection and can pick from many tools but you really don't need many special tools to maintain the CBF, only when you start to play with the engine internals.

How often (time) and/or at what mileage intervals do you find the need to change the fork oil and what are the symptoms?

I don't think mileage matters. I think road conditions , bumps ETC come in to it.When I feel the front feeling limp I change the oil, for me I do it yearly,same as the coolant.

How long should be allowed by the average person to do the job first time?

Depends if you have two left hands !.If you can take the wheel off, remove the forks. Don't rush or panic. changing the oil is easy, the hard bit is not over filling with oil as you have to remove it. If I over fill the oil I use the tape measure and dip it in the oil,then wipe tape clean until the level is correct.
I think if you had never done anything like this before, had all the tools with you and can use them, I would say not rushing allow all morning into late afternoon,with a few tea breaks . but why rush, make it fun to do.

Would you do it for others (time permitting) at your place and if so how many beers (or pints equivalent) would you charge?

YES I would but this could be done any where outside if dry. BUT the fun would be you doing it with me helping/watching. that way you learn.
It's a straight forward job, never thought how much to charge anyone, I'm not a Dealer,  open to offers.helping is more enjoyable than money.
I will always help someone.I will travel in my van with all tools,just cover my Diesel. or help someone over the phone.or ride to me.


 :028:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Bifferman on 08 October, 2015, 05:26:54 PM
*Originally Posted by richardcbf [+]
Nice one Robo  :028:
I wish I had the chance/need to do the mileage and a suitable place (and tools) to do more bike diy stuff....

How often (time) and/or at what mileage intervals do you find the need to change the fork oil and what are the symptoms?

How long should be allowed by the average person to do the job first time?

Would you do it for others (time permitting) at your place and if so how many beers (or pints equivalent) would you charge?

Feck off and join the queue.
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 08 October, 2015, 06:15:48 PM
*Originally Posted by Bifferman [+]
Feck off and join the queue.

Hey you two can bid up on beer or scotch.like Ebay, the one with the highest amount for my belly gets it done first  :031: :mfrlol:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: alan sh on 08 October, 2015, 07:52:14 PM
Surely distance comes into it as well  - so two bottles of whisky and a 200 mile trip is a lower bid than 1 bottle and a 20 mile trip.

Alan
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 08 October, 2015, 08:08:53 PM
 :435: only two. :151:

Anyway its all there with pictures so you can take it on. :028:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: alan sh on 08 October, 2015, 08:13:23 PM
Yes, and one day I will.

My "example" was for your benefit when looking at the bidding.  :mfrlol:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: illmor on 09 October, 2015, 11:07:44 PM
I use vernier calipers + silicon hose + syringe. Set the level, suck excess out = job done
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: richardcbf on 10 October, 2015, 11:56:23 AM
*Originally Posted by Robo [+]
Hey you two can bid up on beer or scotch.like Ebay, the one with the highest amount for my belly gets it done first  :031: :mfrlol:
Er, I seem to remember that I've already got a few beers in the bank of Robo, right?  :031:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Bifferman on 10 October, 2015, 02:52:28 PM
Robo is such a nice chap I am sure he will look after both of us as long as he is looked after somehow and respected for his knowledge and experience  :037: :037:

Andy
 :149:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Piper on 11 October, 2015, 09:26:07 AM
Thanks Robo, much appreciate the technical guide. I will have to do this job soon enough.

Cheers Pete
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Yosser on 11 October, 2015, 07:16:11 PM
"helping is more enjoyable than money.
I will always help someone.I will travel in my van with all tools,just cover my Diesel. or help someone over the phone.or ride to me."

What a fine chap Robo is!   Superb contribution.  Deserves to run his own tech company, don't you think?

P.S.   I know there's an Edmonton in Canada.  I wonder if there's a Coventry? 
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Bifferman on 11 February, 2016, 06:46:05 PM
Robo

By adding your 23mm spacer + 2mm washer the fork spring will be compressed another one inch which in turn I guess would make the front suspension a good bit stiffer.  Apart from the fact that 25mm = 1 inch was there any other 'science' that led you to compress the spring by that further amount. 

Secondly, does your modification make a noticeable difference to the front forks i.e. is there slightly less dive when you brake or what ?

Lastly, to make life easier when I come to reassemble the innards I was to reduce the spacer to say 18mm (+2mm for the washer) whould this IYO reduce the stiffness noticeable or, put another way, would it still be worth doing a revised modification.

Another lastly :015:, Are there any other bits that you would suggest are replaced when changing the oil i.e. the bush guide and/or the oil seal stop/ring (item 12 on the Lings exploded diagram).

I intend either buying the extension collar and washer or scrounging from someone - you haven't got a spare one have you :164:.

When I do this I will be replacing the steering race bearings for the tapered 'All Balls' ones sitting in my spares bin.

Thanks in advance.

Andy
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 15 February, 2016, 07:03:41 PM
*Originally Posted by Bifferman [+]
Robo

By adding your 23mm spacer + 2mm washer the fork spring will be compressed another one inch which in turn I guess would make the front suspension a good bit stiffer.Correct  Apart from the fact that 25mm = 1 inch was there any other 'science' that led you to compress the spring by that further amount.  Before aftermarket springs and air the old school trick was to add an inch and go from there,if you think I'm pulling your leg , phone Alf Hagon's shop and pick their brain.

Secondly, does your modification make a noticeable difference to the front forks i.e. is there slightly less dive when you brake or what ?Yes , it depends what you want

Lastly, to make life easier when I come to reassemble the innards I was to reduce the spacer to say 18mm (+2mm for the washer) whould this IYO reduce the stiffness noticeable or, put another way, would it still be worth doing a revised modification.you can mess around reducing oil also, but the more oil you add the chance you will blow a fork seal, the same as adding a bigger spacer, but if you add a bigger spacer/oil/ it will stiffen up to much/go hard and be unridable.
1 inch is a good base line ,you can always reduce it to suit.


Another lastly :015:, Are there any other bits that you would suggest are replaced when changing the oil i.e. the bush guide and/or the oil seal stop/ring (item 12 on the Lings exploded diagram).not with the miles you have put on it.

I intend either buying the extension collar and washer or scrounging from someone - you haven't got a spare one have you :164:.
I have spare tube the correct diameter but no washers, a guy on Ebay laser cut me a pair for a few ££ , or buy the washers from Honda. 

When I do this I will be replacing the steering race bearings for the tapered 'All Balls' ones sitting in my spares bin.

Thanks in advance.

Andy
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: bbatarelo on 16 August, 2016, 01:18:07 PM
*Originally Posted by Bifferman [+]
Robo

By adding your 23mm spacer + 2mm washer the fork spring will be compressed another one inch which in turn I guess would make the front suspension a good bit stiffer.  Apart from the fact that 25mm = 1 inch was there any other 'science' that led you to compress the spring by that further amount. 

Secondly, does your modification make a noticeable difference to the front forks i.e. is there slightly less dive when you brake or what ?

Lastly, to make life easier when I come to reassemble the innards I was to reduce the spacer to say 18mm (+2mm for the washer) whould this IYO reduce the stiffness noticeable or, put another way, would it still be worth doing a revised modification.


As Robo mentionend, it depends on what you want. 25mm is IMO the maximum preload you should add. It almost binds "progressive" section of springs leaving you very soon in compression cycle with stiffer springs. By preloading spring, you are permanently storing more energy in it and on a rebound stroke suspension will resist less then before. That can cause instability that can be addressed in several ways. Popular way is adding thicker oil which will also affect compression stroke. You might or might not like it, or even feel it. Also there's a possible suspension wear in the long run if you thicken the oil too much. This is a "poor man's" modification which might work OK if you don't exaggerate and if you know what you want to achieve.
In the end, nothing can replace properly tuned suspension according to rider's weight and needs, but we are talking about orders of magnitude rise in costs compared to the solution above.

Bruno
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Markytp on 16 August, 2016, 06:28:47 PM
Silly question that I'm surprised hasn't been asked before........

Why don't we do a poll of things / jobs we would like to learn to do, then all chip in, pay Robo for a weekend of his time and we all meet up and have a weekend of "How to.....", a few sherberts, food and a bloody good laugh??  :001:

Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 16 August, 2016, 07:58:44 PM
 :031: :031: :031: :028:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Biker Mike on 16 August, 2016, 08:20:31 PM
*Originally Posted by Markytp [+]
Silly question that I'm surprised hasn't been asked before........

Why don't we do a poll of things / jobs we would like to learn to do, then all chip in, pay Robo for a weekend of his time and we all meet up and have a weekend of "How to.....", a few sherberts, food and a bloody good laugh??  :001:
There's always this:
https://www.cbf1000.com/index.php?action=articles;cat=1 (https://www.cbf1000.com/index.php?action=articles;cat=1)
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Markytp on 16 August, 2016, 08:23:26 PM
*Originally Posted by Biker Mike [+]
There's always this:
https://www.cbf1000.com/index.php?action=articles;cat=1 (https://www.cbf1000.com/index.php?action=articles;cat=1)

Yup, there is that, but much prefer the craic of a meet, a few beers and some good grub than sat at the kitchen table in me underkecks reading off a screen.  :001:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: J-man on 17 August, 2016, 06:32:43 AM
http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Suspension%20Bible (http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Suspension%20Bible)
Really cuts trough a lot of issues involved but it requires some study time while they came to a ton of effort to make it addressable for the mortal soul. This is the basics covered in a way you cant find it better Imho.
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: alan sh on 17 August, 2016, 08:50:30 AM
*Originally Posted by Markytp [+]
Silly question that I'm surprised hasn't been asked before........

Why don't we do a poll of things / jobs we would like to learn to do, then all chip in, pay Robo for a weekend of his time and we all meet up and have a weekend of "How to.....", a few sherberts, food and a bloody good laugh??  :001:

Because he lives f'in miles away from me  :430:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: SaturnV on 17 August, 2016, 09:25:48 AM
Good job Robo  :152:

Looks like you also resprayed the corroded fork ends while you had it apart??  Need to do that on mine too  :087:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Markytp on 17 August, 2016, 07:39:13 PM
*Originally Posted by alan sh [+]
Because he lives f'in miles away from me  :430:

He's already said he'll travel if we cover diesel costs  :028:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 19 August, 2016, 07:17:19 PM
*Originally Posted by Markytp [+]
He's already said he'll travel if we cover diesel costs  :028:

Pussy  :010:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: 1madboiler on 29 September, 2016, 11:17:36 AM
Following Robo's wonderful post..my forks are now sorted...and black because i couldnt find a silver paint that matched..Thanks
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: dbrewerton on 06 November, 2016, 06:12:59 PM
Given that I haven't had the front forks serviced (ever) on my '08, I have the following questions. It currently has almost 32,000km.

1) Are the OEM springs progressive? My KLR OEM ones weren't and I had Progressives put in. If they aren't then I'll look at getting progressives and get a service done with the progressives put in at the same time. 
2) Would Amsoil ATF fluid work in a servicing? I know that ATF fluid is often used for forks and I happen to have 3L left over after servicing two of our cars transmissions.
3) What sort of service interval for the rear shock?
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: J-man on 07 November, 2016, 03:56:33 AM
My 2006 had progressive. I suppose 2008 too. Why do you swear with progressive? Many suspension specialists think thats a heritage from the times that valves did not exist. Racetech suspension bible say so, as well as my White Power specialist who put linears in. If you have valved suspensions (as biffer does) you do not need progressive in any way. There are draw backs on progressive you know.
Got myself renewed fronts springs + oil at 53.000 km, plus a new shock (white power too) customized for my bike + weights and I would not like to have it otherwise, bike gives me now the confidence I need when theres a bobble in the road in a corner. The old was worn out, that simple, they did not leak oil though, just not good enough for me anymore. But you have less km so I dunno about that.
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Billywhizz on 24 April, 2017, 09:08:38 PM
Hi Robo,
Good article.

You say you make your Spacers, but do you know where I could get some from-and do you know the tube diameter and wall thickness.

Thanks in advance.
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 25 April, 2017, 02:24:36 PM
This is what I used,I had some laying around, cut it to the size I wanted,

steel tube  34mm OD x   1mm WALL

Same as this below.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STEEL-PRECISION-TUBE-34mm-OD-x-300mm-LONG-1mm-WALL-Mild-Steel-AISI-1010-/252599682839?hash=item3ad01d4717:m:m5Kv3rEuBYRWOUPzTRQ03pg
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Billywhizz on 25 April, 2017, 03:36:29 PM
Brill - thanks  :028: :028:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Robo on 25 April, 2017, 04:57:17 PM
If you look at picture 24 from the opening post I added another washer so the two tubes sat better than placing the Honda tube and homemade tube together,The ebay item I showed you is long enough for you to make a single tube and remove the Honda one, without adding a washer.
If you understand that?

I wouldn't go 25mm as it makes the front a bit light , but when I did this I was carrying a lot of weight (delivering items)

What are you planning to do  :465:
Title: Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
Post by: Frank666 on 12 June, 2019, 08:50:36 PM
Has anyone done this mod?
I'm wanting to try it on my CBF and just wondered what results other people have experienced.
If so, is the overall 25mm increase the one to go for, or should I try less?
I just want to stiffen the wallowy front end up.
Thanks!