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91
CBF1000 - General Discussion / Re: 2006 CBF 1000A Starter or rectifier?
« Last post by raYzerman on 01 February, 2024, 08:22:59 pm »
Adding to Art's info..... battery voltage while cranking if 10V is kinda marginal, might be OK, but voltage is not always a reliable indicator of the state of the battery.  One can take it to a battery or automotive shop and they should be able to do a proper load test (for no charge, no pun intended, lol)..... a much more reliable indicator of the state of the battery.... note, must be fully charged first.

I'll also add that a freshly charged battery should show more like 12.8-12.9 for an AGM type battery, so that's OK and multimeters can vary a bit.

I can't imagine what would spark, as the starter relay and starter are pretty much sealed units.... however, might want to ensure the battery cable is clean and snug where it connects to the starter.... about all I can think of that would spark (if loose).

So you've got fuel injection instead of carbs, and a bit more modern charging system, which could be better and on newer bikes is vastly improved.  Keep us informed on your progress.
92
CBF1000 - General Discussion / Re: 2006 CBF 1000A Starter or rectifier?
« Last post by Art on 01 February, 2024, 05:43:06 pm »
What should happen is with the battery level of charge at 12.7v:
you turn on the ignition switch and the battery voltage slowly drops to around 12v but no less;
you press the starter button, the starter motor cranks the engine and the battery voltage rapidly drops to 10v
the starter motor continues to crank the engine and the battery voltage remains above 9.5v.

If that's the case the battery, starter motor relay and starter motor are all behaving normal and the engine should fire up.

The CBF1000 is the same as your 1985 motorcycles, or any other internal combustion engine, they all simply need FUEL, COMPRESSION and SPARK to start, you need to troubleshoot to see what is missing. If you can hear the fuel pump prime (whirl) when you turn the ignition on I'd take that, for the time being, to indicate there is FUEL, if the starter motor cranks the engine in pulses I'd take that, for the time being, to indicate there is compression which narrows your 'crank no start fault' down to SPARK, you need to troubleshoot the ignition system.

How did you check the fuses?

Lidl's 'Parkside' multimeter should be good enough for home mechanic use and as good as any other budget priced multimeter.
93
CBF1000 - General Discussion / Re: 2006 CBF 1000A Starter or rectifier?
« Last post by BEZ1951 on 01 February, 2024, 02:26:48 pm »
Hi again,
the charged battery is 12.7 and when the starter is turning it shows 10 and reduces downwards quickly.
The multimeter I bought was from our local branch of Lidl but there are no tangible instructions on how to use or what to use it on.
My problem started when I had a flattish battery as I hadn't been out on the bike for a while due to heavy wind and torrential rain we've had for weeks so I charged it up with my optimate 4.
When I tried to start it there was a flash from somewhere near the starter motor area or so the wife has informed me last night.
Since I first posted this problem I have spent quite a few hours trying everything I could.
My thoughts are now on the starter motor. As I said before all fuses were ok when I checked them.
Looks like its back to scrutinizing the Haynes Manual for a while.
I have 2 Honda cb650 sc-c sohc Nighthaks that I have had since 1984 and I service them and look after them myself with not really any problems.
Believe it or not the 2006 CBF is the newest bike I've ever owned and the difference in the bikes electrics etc is stumping me.
Like going from a Tiger Moth to Concord.
OK, back to the manual.
94
On Two Wheels / Re: Help wanted zzr 600 brake puzzle
« Last post by Art on 29 January, 2024, 02:06:03 pm »
Happy days
95
On Two Wheels / Re: Help wanted zzr 600 brake puzzle
« Last post by edger on 29 January, 2024, 02:03:37 pm »
Hi everyone and thank you for your sage advice,
I rebuilt the callipers as stated ,braided hose new fluid etc
however I stripped them again on Friday pushed the pistons back re greased every thing  pins etc roughed the pads with wet and dry and refitted every thing ,The only thing I did differently was to reduce the amount of fluid in the master cylinder, It was a bit full I had an idea that there was not enough space for the returning fluid to expand in to .
Out yesterday for a spin/test the lever now has 10-15 mm free play at the start(there was very little before) and a nice progressive feel when the pads start to bite .
She's now back on the bench to adjust the chain oh joy!!
96
On Two Wheels / Re: Help wanted zzr 600 brake puzzle
« Last post by Art on 29 January, 2024, 01:42:20 pm »
If the brakes are too spongy, assuming there are no fluid leaks, the most probably cause will be brake fluid contamination, although on these older machines it could also be a symptom of a failing brake line. Have an assistant apply the brakes while you check for any bulging or expanding of the flexible brake lines.

When was the last time you checked the brake fluid for moisture content, bled the brakes or replaced the brake fluid?
97
On Two Wheels / Re: Help wanted zzr 600 brake puzzle
« Last post by Art on 29 January, 2024, 01:27:45 pm »
As said brake application is a ratio between the master cylinder piston bore and brake caliper pistons. If I was a gambling man I'd wager some boy racer has fettled the brakes to give that one touch full braking experience required for the track not realising its next to useless for the roads where more feel and progressive braking is required. I'd check that you have stock specification master cylinder and calipers.

98
On Two Wheels / Re: Help wanted zzr 600 brake puzzle
« Last post by YDraig on 29 January, 2024, 12:18:02 pm »
As long as nothing is binding at the caliper then the firmness is down to the ratio between the master cylinder and the brake caliper piston sizes. (and the lever of course).  The thing is this, do the brakes do the job, or do you feel like you're having to squeeze harder than you should need to get them to bite?  I mention the binding because 'he pad wear is a bit uneven with a small amount not yet touching the disc'  After a few months? How many miles? is the non-contact at one edge of the pad? or are the disks that badly worn that you've got concentric wear ridges in the pads?  If it's at one end then the pads may not be moving freely, so check the pad pins and carriers as well as the pistons (I'm assuming the brake mounts aren't bent as well).
On my CBF (mk1 abs) the brake lever has a soft feel and can be bought nearly all the way back to the bar, but if you were to do that at any speed you'd lock it up pdq. it only needs a small movement for normal braking and there's very little resistance to lever travel. (is everyone elses mk1 abs the same?). At the same time there's plenty of braking for emergency stops.
99
CBF1000 - General Discussion / Re: 2006 CBF 1000A Starter or rectifier?
« Last post by Art on 29 January, 2024, 09:30:18 am »
All our know how was primitive at one time. You need to step up and learn this stuff, it's easy enough and mostly been posted before. Assume nothing, test everything and concentrate on the specific issue in hand which seems to be 'low voltage when cranking' therefore let's start with the voltage.

I have 4 questions:

1) What are the battery's Ah and CCA ratings? The numbers can be found on the battery label.

2) Are the battery terminals secure? My weapon of choice here is to nip up the terminal nuts with a 10mm socket on a 75mm extension and tee bar, if you use a spanner take care not to short the positive terminal to ground, if you use a screwdriver you're wasting you time.

3) What is the battery's level of charge voltage? Measure the voltage across the battery terminals with the ignition switched off.

4) What is the drop in the battery's level of charge voltage when you experience the 'crank no start' fault. Measure the voltage across battery terminals while the starter motor is cranking the engine.
100
CBF1000 - General Discussion / Re: 2006 CBF 1000A Starter or rectifier?
« Last post by BEZ1951 on 29 January, 2024, 07:03:09 am »
Hi, thanks for the reply.
When on a freshly  charged battery it turns the engine over but the battery behaves like its flat so won't start the bike up.
All lights etc are working as though it has a full charge.
It seems like something is sucking the charge away from the starter motor.
I am now thinking that it could be the starter because that's when the problem started.
I have a multi meter but my electric know how is primitive.
Paul
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