25 Feb 24, 20:48 pm

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CBF1000 - General Discussion / Handguards for CBF1000 (2009)
« Last post by Hankiss on Today at 01:14:11 pm »
Greetings to all,

I'm currently exploring the possibility of adding handguards to my 2009 Honda CBF1000. Despite searching extensively online, I haven't been able to locate any handguards specifically designed for my Honda model. While I've come across a few options labeled as "universal" fitment, I'm hesitant about their compatibility.

I'm reaching out to inquire if anyone in this community has successfully fitted handguards to their Honda CBF1000. If so, I would greatly appreciate hearing about your experiences and any recommendations you may have regarding suitable handguard options. Your insights would be immensely helpful.

Thank you kindly in advance for any assistance you can provide.

CBF1000 - General Discussion / Re: Well Bugger me ! Tank support
« Last post by Art on Today at 06:24:56 am »
Go sit on the naughty step for ignoring home mechanic Rule #1 RTFM

Top marks for a 'Man made in Shed' solution to support the petrol tank which would have been a better photograph for the knowledge base. I read a post on here some time ago where one of the lads with deep pockets laid out 30 in hard earned for the 'C' spanner and handle because that was the preferred Honda method. Other useful tools I've 'Man made in Shed' from off cuts of timber include a drive chain elongation gauge, drive chain slack gauge, engine/frame supports to raise the front wheel/forks off the ground and a rear wheel support to position the rear wheel for finger tip axle fitting/removal.
CBF1000 - General Discussion / Well Bugger me ! Tank support
« Last post by keithriley on Yesterday at 02:40:16 pm »
Apologies if you've all seen this before and completely aware of it. This just goes to prove you're never too old to learn, along with a little 'if you actually read the manual'
I've spent the day putting my bike back together and found out the C spanner and extension sleeve thingy can be used to hold the fuel tank up, Honda has actually put a lug on the frame to hold it. It does mention a piece of wood will do the same, and that is what I've been doing since owning the bike.
Nothing special I know but my flabber was most definitely gasted !
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Rear Sprocket nut torque
« Last post by raYzerman on 19 February, 2024, 10:41:53 pm »
In my opinion, this is a classic case of over-engineering.  The studs are heftier than most other similarly powered bikes' sprocket bolts.  Their torques are much lower, so I propose you go 108NM max with a dry thread.  In addition, the nuts are FujiLoc (as is the rear axle nut), with the metal piece that indeed is your thread locker.  They won't come loose.  Nor is there really any significant side load on the sprocket.

As for lubricated threads, consider Loctite a lubricant if you used a liquid.  When anti-seize or "copper grease" is used, the torque should be reduced 30% and you will achieve the same clamp load.  If you lubed with engine oil, you'd reduce it even further. 

I'm just swapping out my rear sprocket today to change the gearing... I'm going to use a common sense torque of ~80Nm.  A short list of a few bikes and their torques......

VFR800 - 34Nm (25 ft. lbs.), surprisingly low one could say
Versys 1000 - 60 (44)
Tracer GT - 80 (59)
DL1050 - 60 (44)
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Rear Sprocket nut torque
« Last post by YDraig on 19 February, 2024, 11:41:59 am »
Just for completeness if anyone else goes through this thread:
With clean and dry threads I stuck with the 108NM torque setting, there were no signs of any issues going this tight.  Thing is I've known the manual (manufacturers workshop) be wrong before on other bikes (wrecked one kawasaki head with wrong cam-chain tension procedure from following the manual many years ago)...
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: 16k Service - How important is it?
« Last post by Art on 18 February, 2024, 04:00:20 pm »
The sections on Throttle Bodies in the Honda Workshop Manuals will be of interest
It is quite true all in-line fours have an inherent vibration, usually in the 4000-5000 rpm range.  To combat this, counter rotating balancers are used (e.g., two in the ST1300 and FJR1300, one in the Kawasaki 1000's and CBF1000).  There is a gear lash adjustment, however that is only for gear noise, not position of the balancer(s).  One would have to blueprint an engine to attempt to further reduce that physical vibration, but that would make engines cost prohibitive on a mass produced basis.

The only other way to reduce vibes is to tune the engine to have each cylinder breathing as close to the same as possible.  Valve opening heights and open time duration affect this, and valve clearances if all uniform will produce the best situation.  As I mentioned as an example, if one were to set one pair of cylinders at minimum clearances and one pair at max, this would be the worst situation.  It's only logical.  I've done many valve checks/reshimming on various bikes to have the clearances uniform and the results are definitely noticeable if they were badly off to start with.  It all depends on how bad (far apart) they were in the first place.  If most were hovering around nominal, then you'll not likely notice much if any benefit from tweaking them all to one particular number.  They are already "uniform enough".  Unfortunately, I have found some wide variances, usually at the first valve check.  Each one is different and a judgement call based on your initial findings.

You certainly don't have to do what I do.  Within tolerance is OK.  But if I have to pull cams, I'm going to do the best I can while I'm in there that deep.  Setting them somewhat above nominal will just buy a lot more time before one has to go in there again.

The other adjustment is on throttle body vacuum, usually each throttle body has a tapered air bleed adjustment screw.  It's standard procedure in all the service manuals to perform a throttle body sync.  This vacuum is affected by valve clearance uniformity for the most part.  On the CBF, given the first look, it appears Honda attempts to automatically balance by linking the TB's together with a common vacuum hose arrangement, but I have to investigate this further.  I have not dug into it to see if the TB's have adjuster screws, but I'd say there had to be a way for them to bench balance them during assembly.  I'm not due for a valve check/TBS yet, and will get into it next winter.
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: 16k Service - How important is it?
« Last post by Art on 18 February, 2024, 11:39:03 am »
Engine vibrations are inherent to engine design and mostly caused by a combination of crankshaft configuration, ignition timing and firing order but are also due to imbalances of rotating and reciprocating parts such as pistons, con rods, flywheel etc.

If valve clearances are within the manufacturers specified tolerance, albeit at the minimum or maximum of that tolerance, they should not have any noticeable effect on engine vibration. However, if one or more of the valve clearances are outside the specified tolerance that can cause pinking (aka pre-ignition or engine knock). Pinking can appear as a slight engine vibration or a heavy engine knocking and in the extreme cases cause a violent rocking of the engine.

Of course, there can be many other causes of excessive engine vibration and the assumption here is that the engine is in good mechanical condition.
I'd extend the interval too, not a problem on this bike.  As for the vibrations, if you want to test it, set two cylinders at minimum clearance the other two at max clearances.... that should tell you the tale.
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: 16k Service - How important is it?
« Last post by Bluefox on 17 February, 2024, 05:39:00 pm »
I have a very good friend who is a senior technician at a Honda dealers, who told me not to even think about the valve clearances on my mk2 til at least 32k
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