07 Jun 23, 01:03 am

Recent Posts

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1
CBF1000 - General Discussion / Re: Cbf1000 A9 keys
« Last post by AKxx70 on Yesterday at 10:20:49 pm »
*Originally Posted by Froggymanny [+]
...
So - if 42 is not the answer you're looking for, ...

I did not know that the "Hitchhiker's Guide" was much heard of outside of the UK  :028:
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CBF1000 - General Discussion / Re: gear indicator
« Last post by AKxx70 on Yesterday at 09:56:31 pm »
Thank you for your video. As you said it is great for future generations of Honda owners.  :028:

I actually had the same trouble with locating the little red DLC plug a few weeks ago - it was wrapped in black insulation tape (not much of the redness visible) and taped to one of the other cables. The service manual says you need to lift and support the fuel tank to have a better access to the plug, but this would require removing a few bits of fairings, etc.. And as we are all  ̶l̶a̶z̶y̶  "busy" people (except for a few gurus here on the forum :015:) we always strive to take shortcuts  :001:
Like yourself I managed to reach it without lifting the tank but this was an exercise of pain and patience  :015:

And today I found your video  :001:
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Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: headlights
« Last post by Rev Ken on Yesterday at 09:32:47 pm »
*Originally Posted by Art [+]
Riding in day light on full beam is not as harmless as you make it out to be, try selling it to plod at the roadside...

If you want to be more visible get a pair of DRL's and form a triangle with the dipped beam, or try a yellow jacket just like plod. Top tip - Get on a Bike Safe course to experience the safety bubble afforded to police motorcyclists by other vehicles :016: Another option is to change your line (weave) when approaching junctions with vehicles waiting to pull out, the idea is to break up your background.

I've recently fitted a pair of these, they are proper bright and unlike other cheap as chips motorcycle DRL's thay do not have the annoying full on, half on , strobe three phase feature. Then again using the (illegal) strobe feature when filtering does get traffic parting like the Red Sea.
Spot on! (Oh that was unintentionally drawing attention to Spot lights, or DRLs.) :008:

When fitting DRLs try to fit them as far apart as possible, it all helps.
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General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: PGM-FI light on
« Last post by AKxx70 on Yesterday at 09:29:07 pm »
*Originally Posted by abtx [+]
I'm still on stock, I might want to replace it anyway. I'll check if the valve is fully open too, worth a look.

Which one you got and how does it sound?


I fitted a FUEL exhaust and I posted pics and videos with sound in one of my previous threads:
https://www.cbf1000.com/index.php/topic,23736.msg266081.html#msg266081

It is better to listen to the sound on a PC with speakers or on the phone with headphones in order to hear the bass.
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Thanks for your ideas Art. Yes, I agree that the root cause of fuel mix richness might not relate to the fuel injection system electronics but simply to the lack of air coming in for whatever reason. Or the spark plugs. Or as some suggest even the valve gaps.

Before taking this course of investigation I would still attempt one more test. When I had the O2 sensor disconnected and no eliminator fitted the MIL light was on. Yet the engine was starting fine when cold. And when hot too (as far as I remember, but this is what I need to double-check). If this is the case then there might be an explanation as I think there is one important difference between running the engine without the O2 sensor connected (MIL lit) and running it with the eliminator.

My logic is as following: if the sensor is not connected then the ECU knows about it and does not try to use the readings (0V) from the missing sensor - it will just use its own maps. But if the eliminator was connected it would trick the ECU into thinking the sensor was there and it will use the 0V reading as an indication of mixture being too lean (remember, the more oxygen - the less voltage) and would try to compensate by adding more fuel to the mix making it permanently too rich for the "closed loop".

I am going to run the engine without sensor and without the eliminator and see if the hot start improves or not. It is just a theory (because the ECU might consider 0V as an out-of-range value and ignore it if it has been programmed to do so) but it is worth checking.

As for the change of the exhaust - the issue was there before with the old exhaust and servo fitted. I did not notice any change in engine operation after fitting an aftermarket exhaust. The only change I noticed was the sound and the looks  :002: And maybe a bit of weight saving. The MPG is the same too - approx. 11 miles per litre (Honda, why did you want us to practice x4.5 multiplication every time we ride the bike?!!!)

Will keep you posted.
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General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Radiator leak
« Last post by nasosrr on Yesterday at 01:06:41 pm »
Man, you really are a living library of invaluable information!
People like you, in all kinds of professions, are the reason why internet is SO amazing! Really REALLY thank you!!!

I'm going to the garage now to remove the plastic bags.

Next time I replace the coolant (which will be a bit sooner than I otherwise would, now that I know there's something bugging me) I will certainly follow your process. :)

And, like I said many times before: Thanks a lot!  :031:
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General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Radiator leak
« Last post by Art on Yesterday at 12:28:07 pm »
Happy days.

Bleeding the coolant - After re-filling the system surround the filler neck with rag to catch any spillage, run engine up to normal operating temperature, blip the throttle two or three times, switch off and top up to filler neck, replace filler cap and allow to cool. Once cold top up expansion (reservoir) bottle to upper level, check level after 100 miles.

Completely draining the system is difficult if not impossible. What I do is drain as much as will drain from the coolant drain plug which will be about 2 to 2 litres which leaves to 1 litre in the system. To flush I then refill the system with de-ionised water, bleed the system without topping up, allow to cool and drain again. I repeat this process once or twice more until the drained fluid is all but clear. To achieve a 50:50 mix of coolant:de-ionised water on the final fill I first add 1 litres of concentrated coolant and top up with de-ionised water. Which is why I prefer concentrated over ready mixed coolant.

Covering any electrical cable with plastic bags or PVC tape is a bad idea because it can cause the cables to sweat and over heat. There is also a risk of water or moisture  ingress and once water or moisture has found its way in it can't get out. The solution is simple use a propriety automotive cable sleeving, if its just to protect from chaffing spiral sleeving can be fitted without the need to disconnect the cables, if tubular sleeving is used do not seal the ends which will allow any water or moisture ingress to escape. If you need to tape cabling use a wiring harness tape.
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New Members / Re: Hi !
« Last post by Art on Yesterday at 11:37:15 am »
 :405:

The CBF1000 is an excellent and often over looked choice for a Sports Tourer that ticks many boxes in its class. There's little difference between the earlier original SC58 (2006 to 2009) and the later face lift SC64 (2010 to 2013) although difference there is and some face lift owners will...

You can mostly ignore the exaggerated hype and myth of sudden stator failure on the earlier SC58 models, sure the stators have been known to fail and yes there was an extended 7 year warranty period, but stator service life can be managed so as not to be a problem. Some things to look out for apart from the usual general condition and evidence of regular maintenance include:

Registrations - Late registration or 'New Old Stock' of both models:
Some SC58's have been known to have been first registered as late as 2013 when the last production run was 2009;
Some SC64's have been known to have been first registered as late as 2016 when the last production run was 2013;
Dealers advertise these machines as the year registered not the production run year, add to that the 2010 to 1013 overlap and there's a perfect recipe for confusion.

Corrosion - Specific areas to check include: radiator fan motor bracket; centre stand; swinging arm; collector box exhaust clamps.

Exhaust - Aftermarket exhausts, especially on the later single exhaust SC64's, have been known to cause fuelling issues (with and without EGR valve eliminator kits)

Don't be fooled by dealers offering mint machines, they will have been showroom prepped, CBF1000's are now in their teenage years so expect the odd spot or two.

Worthwhile (essential) modifications include:
The dipped beam is poor consider replacing the H7 halogen bulb with a HID bulb & ballast or DRL's or both;
The front mudguard is too short and needs (must) a fender extender;
A rear hugger to protect the rear shock from road fling;
If touring or you want top box and panniers get a motorcycle that already has them fitted, adding later is very expensive even when buying used.
If you prefer a centre stand note some earlier models came without and adding one later can be a right PITA.

The CBF1000 is not everybody's cup of tea but what it is is bomb proof, won't be dissappointed
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General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Radiator leak
« Last post by nasosrr on Yesterday at 10:36:22 am »
Last Saturday I completed the installation of the new radiator. Got tons of help from Art's instructions and advice and of course I wouldn't have made it without the manual and Haynes book.

Here is the process I followed (tried to make it short and removed all the boring parts):
(the video is unlisted, I am just posting it here)

And here is the lady, after the reparation was complete:


And some pics, before, during and after:
https://ibb.co/album/tMZ3fb

I still feel a bit nervous when I ride, because I am worried I didn't complete the air-bleeding process correctly, but on the other hand, I drove for like 50 km yesterday and everything felt normal. And the radiator gets warm, as it should, so it seems to me that the coolant circulates properly everywhere.

One thing I am not happy about, is that I didn't flush the system properly before I re-filled it. I should have done a better job there. The reason why I didn't, is that I don't have access to running water at my garage and I had to carry bottles from my apartment. So I only flushed it with about 2 liters of water, but yeah, I see that the coolant in the reserve tank isn't very clean already. :(

I get restless when I take down panels and get access to stuff and I behave like a child, "Ooooooh, can I remove this one too??? Cool!!!", so I took the opportunity and cleaned up a little bit down there too. It's far from mint, but it's better than it was before.
I also noticed that the cables for the heated grips had started wearing off a bit (thankfully only the self-vulcanizable tape that I had wrapped them in), so I found some plastic tube and wrapped it around. I couldn't find a larger diameter though, so it doesn't look pretty. But I am still looking for the right size and once I find it, I will replace the nasty parts down there.

One question?
As you can see, I covered the headlights' contacts in plastic bags, to protect them from dirt. Is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Risk for catching fire or anything?

That's it from me for today folks.

Once again, thanks a million!!!  :020:
10
Remote diagnosis is difficult and only as reliable as the information given, you appear to be over thinking this, the PGM-FI system checks the O2 sensor (connection, circuit & heater) so we don't have to. Having cleared the DTC's the absence of any returning current or stored DTC's together with the continued difficulty experienced in starting a warmed up engine would be good enough for me to assume the fault is nothing to do with the O2 sensor or any other PGM-FI sensor. Of course it could be an intermittent fault in which case it may return and can be dealt with at some time in the future. It could also be a missed fault, for example, it's all too easy to see an oxygen sensor DTC, replace the sensor and consider the fault to be fixed without any consideration given to the failure being premature, oxygen sensors should be good for 50 to 100,000 miles or more if they fail prematurely it could be due to an underlying fault which, obviously, would cause the replacement to fail prematurely too.

Time to look elsewhere and I'd be looking towards something such as an air intake issue which wouldn't, on its own, trigger the MIL. My prime suspects would include: failed intake duct valve; air duct leak; air box leak; clogged or dirty air filter, air hose leak, vacuum pipe leak and then some, none of which on their own would trigger the MIL.

Another suspect, as mentioned much earlier, could be the spark plugs. You're perfectly correct that 12,000 miles is well within NGK's stated service limit of 100,000 miles, however at 10+ years they should at least be given a visual inspection. The dilemma here, and exception to the 'if it's not broke don't fix rule' is having gone to the time and effort to take the spark plugs out then why not replace them?

or maybe...

*Originally Posted by AKxx70 [+]
I replaced the original exhaust on my Mk2 with an aftermarket one, removed the servo motor and used a Healtech servo eliminator plug (Exhaust Servo Eliminator (ESE) - ESE-H02). Worked a treat.
or did it?
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