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2006 ABS model
Just a quick one, I'm about to fit a new chain & sprockets for the first time on the CBF (done it on other bikes fefore), any tips please and I take it it needs to be in gear to remove the front sprocket bolt?
Thanks
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« Last post by Froggymanny on 21 March, 2023, 07:33:51 am »
 Thank you Art!
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« Last post by Art on 21 March, 2023, 07:31:37 am »
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« Last post by Art on 21 March, 2023, 07:23:51 am »
If the fuel pump doesn't work when jumping it with 12v (Y/R positive & Bl/W or Bl negative) suspect the pump is faulty. If the fuel pump does work by jumping it with 12v suspect the Fuel System Circuit. Working from the power source to the pump check and test: 10A starter fuse; 20A FI IGN fuse; engine stop switch; right handlebar wiring 9 pin brown connector; lean angle sensor; engine stop relay; fuel cut off relay; fuel pump 3 pin black connector and all the associated circuit wiring including the A4, A5 & A21 connections to the Engine Control Module (ECM) . It can be a complicated diagnosis and a multimeter will be your only friend, work through the list step by step and you'll get there. If you’re allowed spanners and you haven't already, you may want to download the Honda Workshop Manual here. The sections on the ' FUEL SYSTEM (PGM FI)' and ' LIGHTS, METERS & SWITCHES' should be an interesting read. If that 'CBF1000TA' is a SC58 I've posted a CBF1000-A colour wiring diagram here or if its a SC64 I've posted a CBF1000-FA colour wiring diagram here, one or other you'll find useful.
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« Last post by Art on 21 March, 2023, 07:15:14 am »
Written by Markus Bloch, I just translated it from German to English.
Note MB's disclaimer - No responsibility accepted for the accuracy.
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« Last post by Art on 21 March, 2023, 05:26:52 am »
...Is a torque (wrench) essential?
My toolbox is bare but will gladly get one if needed.
You don't need a torque wrench to replace the clutch lever so long as you realise that 1 Nm is just finger tight (a touch over seating the bolt) and 6 Nm is no more than a nip. When I did my apprenticeship we were made to use a torque wrench on every nut, bolt and fastening to get an idea of feel for different torque settings. If you're going to venture more into Home Mechanics a torque wrench will be a good investment. Assuming you have a basic 3/8" square drive socket set, my go to torque wrench and ideal tool for the home mechanic is a 3/8" square drive 7-112 Nm (5- 83 lbf-ft) Sealey STW1011. Some will argue that the wide range of 7-112 Nm will mean that it is less than accurate at the extreme ends of that range, for my two penn'orth torquing automotive nuts, bolts and fastenings isn't an exact science and most torque wrenches are calibrated at up to +/- 5% anyway.
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« Last post by Gimpymoo on 20 March, 2023, 09:31:56 pm »
I've dropped mine too many times resulting in damage to both brake and clutch levers. I've managed to bend both back into shape using the other as a template. So at least attempt to bend it back into shape before sourcing a replacement, you'll be surprised at how much bending they'll stand. One time I snapped the brake lever, leaving just a shorty one finger lever to get me 250 miles home. I sourced a pattern replacement from eBay for £13.99, and when compared to the reassuringly expensive costs of a new part from a Honda dealer it was a no brainer. I got the pattern lever off this eBay seller and its been perfect. As said removal and fitting is simple, the clutch lever pivots on a bolt that threads through a bracket on the side of the master cylinder and is further secured by a nut. Reassemble using a silicone grease at the pivot points and tip of the clutch switch, the bolt needs to be no more than finger tight, the nut just needs a nip. For what it's worth the Honda torque specifications are: 1 Nm for the bolt; 6 Nm for the nut. Thanks, really helpful. That link is great. I think the cylinder has been tilted slightly, clutch mechanism catching on rubber casing where indicator/light controls are. Is a torque essential? My toolbox is bare but will gladly get one if needed.
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« Last post by Gimpymoo on 20 March, 2023, 09:28:25 pm »
Howdy. Do you have it already? Should not be that expensive AND I don't want to make any promise here, but I might have a spare one if it helps... Want me to check?
Thank you, a nice gesture. Just got one delivered today so should be good.
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« Last post by Art on 20 March, 2023, 03:31:03 pm »
I'd disconnect the fuel pump connector and jump the pump with 12v. If you hear the fuel pump prime its a wiring fault. If the fuel pump still doesn't prime remove the fuel pump and check the wiring between the connector and pump, if still no joy check the pump.
What sort of Honda Garage replaces a relay because 'they thought' it was the problem?
Relays are so easy to check, I trust they didn't charge you for that, I'd be looking for an alternative garage either way.
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« Last post by VITO on 20 March, 2023, 03:18:58 pm »
Hi,
I didn't touch the wiring.
Had the fuel pump relay replaced by a central Honda garage who thought it was the problem.
I checked the 20A FI fuse - it is fine and I replaced it with a new one.
Can't hear the fuel pump start when the ignition is on.
Best regards
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Originally Posted by Gimpymoo ![[+]](https://www.cbf1000.com/vbicons/viewpostright.png "View Post")