Thank you for your video. As you said it is great for future generations of Honda owners. 

I actually had the same trouble with locating the little red DLC plug a few weeks ago - it was wrapped in black insulation tape (not much of the redness visible) and taped to one of the other cables. The service manual says you need to lift and support the fuel tank to have a better access to the plug, but this would require removing a few bits of fairings, etc.. And as we are all  ̶l̶a̶z̶y̶  "busy" people (except for a few gurus here on the forum ) we always strive to take shortcuts 
Like yourself I managed to reach it without lifting the tank but this was an exercise of pain and patience 

And today I found your video 

I fitted a FUEL exhaust and I posted pics and videos with sound in one of my previous threads:
https://www.cbf1000.com/index.php/topic,23736.msg266081.html#msg266081

It is better to listen to the sound on a PC with speakers or on the phone with headphones in order to hear the bass.

Man, you really are a living library of invaluable information!
People like you, in all kinds of professions, are the reason why internet is SO amazing! Really REALLY thank you!!!

I'm going to the garage now to remove the plastic bags.

Next time I replace the coolant (which will be a bit sooner than I otherwise would, now that I know there's something bugging me) I will certainly follow your process. :)

And, like I said many times before: Thanks a lot! 

 

The CBF1000 is an excellent and often over looked choice for a Sports Tourer that ticks many boxes in its class. There's little difference between the earlier original SC58 (2006 to 2009) and the later face lift SC64 (2010 to 2013) although difference there is and some face lift owners will...

You can mostly ignore the exaggerated hype and myth of sudden stator failure on the earlier SC58 models, sure the stators have been known to fail and yes there was an extended 7 year warranty period, but stator service life can be managed so as not to be a problem. Some things to look out for apart from the usual general condition and evidence of regular maintenance include:

Registrations - Late registration or 'New Old Stock' of both models:
Some SC58's have been known to have been first registered as late as 2013 when the last production run was 2009;
Some SC64's have been known to have been first registered as late as 2016 when the last production run was 2013;
Dealers advertise these machines as the year registered not the production run year, add to that the 2010 to 1013 overlap and there's a perfect recipe for confusion.

Corrosion - Specific areas to check include: radiator fan motor bracket; centre stand; swinging arm; collector box exhaust clamps.

Exhaust - Aftermarket exhausts, especially on the later single exhaust SC64's, have been known to cause fuelling issues (with and without EGR valve eliminator kits)

Don't be fooled by dealers offering mint machines, they will have been showroom prepped, CBF1000's are now in their teenage years so expect the odd spot or two.

Worthwhile (essential) modifications include:
The dipped beam is poor consider replacing the H7 halogen bulb with a HID bulb & ballast or DRL's or both;
The front mudguard is too short and needs (must) a fender extender;
A rear hugger to protect the rear shock from road fling;
If touring or you want top box and panniers get a motorcycle that already has them fitted, adding later is very expensive even when buying used.
If you prefer a centre stand note some earlier models came without and adding one later can be a right PITA.

The CBF1000 is not everybody's cup of tea but what it is is bomb proof, won't be dissappointed

Remote diagnosis is difficult and only as reliable as the information given, you appear to be over thinking this, the PGM-FI system checks the O2 sensor (connection, circuit & heater) so we don't have to. Having cleared the DTC's the absence of any returning current or stored DTC's together with the continued difficulty experienced in starting a warmed up engine would be good enough for me to assume the fault is nothing to do with the O2 sensor or any other PGM-FI sensor. Of course it could be an intermittent fault in which case it may return and can be dealt with at some time in the future. It could also be a missed fault, for example, it's all too easy to see an oxygen sensor DTC, replace the sensor and consider the fault to be fixed without any consideration given to the failure being premature, oxygen sensors should be good for 50 to 100,000 miles or more if they fail prematurely it could be due to an underlying fault which, obviously, would cause the replacement to fail prematurely too.

Time to look elsewhere and I'd be looking towards something such as an air intake issue which wouldn't, on its own, trigger the MIL. My prime suspects would include: failed intake duct valve; air duct leak; air box leak; clogged or dirty air filter, air hose leak, vacuum pipe leak and then some, none of which on their own would trigger the MIL.

Another suspect, as mentioned much earlier, could be the spark plugs. You're perfectly correct that 12,000 miles is well within NGK's stated service limit of 100,000 miles, however at 10+ years they should at least be given a visual inspection. The dilemma here, and exception to the 'if it's not broke don't fix rule' is having gone to the time and effort to take the spark plugs out then why not replace them?

or maybe...

or did it?