26 Mar 23, 19:15 pm

Recent Posts

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1
Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up / Re: cowling
« Last post by Art on Today at 06:58:27 pm »
There's one on eBay for £99

Make an offer or ring round the breakers for a better price.
2
New Members / Recent Convert!
« Last post by Twostroker on Today at 06:41:31 pm »
Just a line to introduce myself.  :158: Just got a 2016 CBF1000f.  I was looking for something to replace my aging 2002 FZS1000 Fazer of fond memory.  What a great all rounder the Honda turns out to be, comfy fast enough, handles well enough, and is good two up too.  All I’m adding is a pair of Givi panniers and a tank lock bag.  As it a 2016 I’m replacing the brake hoses with braided lines and sintered HH pads to be on the safe side and improve the braking.  Hope to see some of you around at the odd race meeting.
3
Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up / cowling
« Last post by Kevin t on Today at 06:24:10 pm »
hi guys, looking for a fellow biker, he lives in the UK and cant find this part anywhere, the product code is 64501MGJD00, it looks like part of the front cowling, we have run out of ideas for tracking one down, he even phoned Honda japan. no luck.
4
New Members / Re: Crit'Air sticker
« Last post by Froggymanny on Yesterday at 02:55:05 pm »
*Originally Posted by Jlangf0r [+]
When I try to apply for a Crit'Air 1 sticker the website tells me that the year of registration (2011) doesn't match the category being applied for. What am I missing here?

Hi there
Thresholds are not enough - the year of first registration also comes into account - Jan '17 fir Crit'air 1
But no worries, you'll be fine with Crit'Air 2!
Let me know if you're struggling to complete the process with that in mind.
Cheers
5
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: New chain & sprockets
« Last post by Rick on Yesterday at 01:40:16 pm »
I changed my chain and sprockets a about a year ago on my SC58 at 20900 miles. From measurements I estimated it would easily last to around 24000 miles however, as I was going on a 4 day trip I decided to edge on the safe side. I took the swinging arm off at the same time to check and grease the bearings, all was ok but there was not much sign of grease. After taking advice from a local motorcycle repair mechanic/ parts supplier I purchased a CZ 530 DZX chain and RK sprockets from him, he joined the chain for me (saved me buying joining equipment) and I then completed the fitting. The cost was just under £100 all in which I think is good value for a complete new drive system. The original drive sprocket had no sign of any grease on the splines so there was plenty of the red dust, I used molybdenum dark grey grease fitting the new one. The old sprockets showed very little signs of wear.
As Art points out the most important point is the joining of the new chain, its only as good as the weakest link, and getting it done professionally meant it was done properly with good quality tools. It depends on your time and ability but to me it makes good sense to take the swinging arm off for a bearing check/re-grease at the same time as changing the chain and sprockets.
6
New Members / Re: Crit'Air sticker
« Last post by Jlangf0r on Yesterday at 12:29:39 pm »
*Originally Posted by Art [+]
Yep that helps, chance I'll be riding into Paris this summer, Crit'air 2 sticker ordered well in advance. The website wasn't clear.

From my reading of the European emission standards my Mk2 (SC64, same as Emmanuel's bike) ought to be eligible for a Crit'Air 1 sticker as the V5 indicates it complies with Euro 4:

CO 0.647 (limit is 1.14)
HC 0.145 (limit is 0.17)
NOx  0.088 (limit is 0.09)

When I try to apply for a Crit'Air 1 sticker the website tells me that the year of registration (2011) doesn't match the category being applied for. What am I missing here?
7
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: New chain & sprockets
« Last post by Art on 24 March, 2023, 06:37:11 am »
I've heard tell of marking the gearshift arm against the gearshift spindle before and I'm not sure why this would be necessary. There are two indent marks, one on the arm and one one the spindle, just note how they line up before removal.
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General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: New chain & sprockets
« Last post by motorhead13 on 23 March, 2023, 08:20:56 pm »
Awesome advice, thank you guys.

Yes I'm happy I should be OK doing it but every bike can have its own little tricks it's worth knowing. Marking the gear shift arm is a great tip and the order of the washers.
9
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: New chain & sprockets
« Last post by Steelworker on 23 March, 2023, 07:13:59 pm »
Before you remove the gear shift arm from the spindle , make a mark on each ( felt pen dot works) so that they line up correctly when the arm goes back on.
10
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: New chain & sprockets
« Last post by Art on 23 March, 2023, 06:41:29 pm »
The CBF is no different to many other mo'cycles, if you've done this job before without issue you'll be fine. A piece of wood through the rear swinging arm works to lock the back wheel up when removing the front sprocket bolt, I prefer the rear brake and crack the rear sprocket nuts before removing the rear wheel, they are tight and can be stubborn. Where you need to pay most attention is linking the chain (pressing the link plate and flaring the chain rivets) check the chain manufacturers specification for the rivet flair as it varies from chain to chain and manufacturer to manufacturer. If you remove the gear shift pivot bolt pay attention to the assembled order (washer and dust seals) and refit with grease to the pivot and a medium strength threadlock on the threads taking care not to mix the grease and threadlock.

Top tips- Grease the gearbox output shaft splines before fitting the front sprocket, check your work (chain slack/alignment, front sprocket bolt, rear sprocket nuts, chain link rivets etc) after 500 to 1,000 miles.
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