03 Dec 22, 08:53 am

Recent Posts

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For Sale Board / Re: Breaking 2006 Mk1 CBF1000
« Last post by keithriley on Yesterday at 10:19:17 pm »
Sent PM
For Sale Board / Re: Breaking 2006 Mk1 CBF1000
« Last post by mikeing1 on Yesterday at 10:14:44 pm »
Somewhere around 50k. And yes it was running when I was rear-ended and still managed to get home on it (Abingdon to Bristol).
For Sale Board / Re: Breaking 2006 Mk1 CBF1000
« Last post by keithriley on Yesterday at 09:41:42 pm »
Other than that is it still a runner, what miles were on the bike. Im currently going through an engine rebuild possibility, keeping my options open.
For Sale Board / Re: Breaking 2006 Mk1 CBF1000
« Last post by mikeing1 on Yesterday at 09:06:07 pm »
Hi Keith yes it is. However there are scratches on both side covers
Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: USB Port
« Last post by pedro on Yesterday at 12:01:42 pm »
Thanks for that Art. As you can probably tell, my knowledge of electrickery is not too expansive.

As for the Quad Lock system I mention, there's a vibration damper that is incorporated in the mounting system, which overcomes (I should hope, that's what it's designed to do anyway) the vibration issue. I also understand your reluctance to have an expensive 'phone on display, although living in deepest darkest Cumbria that might not be as big an issue. But some food for thought there too.

Is my Optimate battery charger lead fused? Yes, I needed to extend the lead from the charger anyway for convenience some time ago and took the opportunity to add an inline fuse at the same time. Should I use the optimate leads from the battery to a USB port, it will likewise be fused.

A bit of pondering to do before action I think for me but thank you for your input. Most helpful.
Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / Re: USB Port
« Last post by Art on Yesterday at 07:32:05 am »
An always live USB socket will add to the standby current drain of the electrics, even without having anything plugged into it there will be some drain. If your happy with the additional standby current drain you should not connect it direct to the battery, it must be connected via an appropriate inline fuse. BTW is your Optimate charging lead fused?

My solution is to add an accessory circuit, self explanatory example here

My ignition switched 'changeover' accessory circuit provides:
IGNITION ON power to satnav, USB sockets, 10A 12v socket, DRL's and a distribution block under the pillion seat for future expansion.
IGNITION OFF power to an Optimate charging lead.
This keeps the additional number of connections to the battery to a minimum of two, one for the accessory circuit and the other for a dash cam system which must have an always on 12v power supply for the parking monitor G-sensor.

As for mounting the 12v and USB sockets I did this as a temporary install by means of an 8 mm wide cable tie, securing the round bodied sockets either side of the ignition switch. I never got around to doing anything else with them and this setup has proved to be reliable and secure and has been that way for 8 years now.

My weapon of choice for satnav is a TomTom Rider mounted on the handlebar via a TomTom anti-theft mount, I keep my phone safe, sound and secure in my pocket. I've never understood how mounting a mobile phone on the handlebars could be a good idea. I've heard of reassuringly expensive mobile phones being snatched from their mounts, maybe that's because I'm a Londoner but I'm sure the same goes on in any city across the UK. I've also heard of mobile phones being damaged from handlebar vibration! Do Apple still advise "It is not recommended to attach your iPhone to motorcycles with high-power or high-volume engines due to the amplitude of the vibration in certain frequency ranges that they generate"?
Lighting, Electrical, and Wiring / USB Port
« Last post by pedro on 01 December, 2022, 11:50:01 pm »
I feel the need to add a USB port to my Mk1 CBF1000 so that my smart phone can be charged whilst doing service as a satnav. The phone goes on a holder attached to the handlebars. So here's a few questions:

1. I could wire it direct from the battery, in fact I have an optimate plug directly onto the battery which I could utilise. Is this a good idea? The USB socket I've bought obviously has a reducer from 12v to whatever the USB is, 5v I think. But that would be an always live connection. Not that I would be leaving the bike with my smart phone on it! So is that reasonable or not? If the thing to do is wire it to an ignition on only arrangement, where could I do that on the bike?

2. Where have people placed the USB socket so it doesn't interfere with anything? I suppose the handlebars, but I wondered if anyone has dash-mounted one.

3. The mount I've got for my phone is a pretty cheap affair. I've been looking at the Quad Lock system to replace that. Looks better made and I guess is safe enough, but it ain't cheap. Anyone any experience of them and what's your thoughts?

Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up / Vfr800 shock
« Last post by panda on 01 December, 2022, 11:43:25 am »
Can a vfr800 2012 rear shock be fitted to a mk2 biffer? Been offered a high end replacement at a rely keen price and with my bike at the 50k mark on the original shock, im seeing if this could be a cheap upgrade.  I know the vfr units are slightly longer but are the any major hurdles to stop the fitment? Im a pretty confident mechanic and have modified many different bikes over the years.
Alarms, Immobilisers, and Security / Re: Key wont turn past on
« Last post by mike1950 on 30 November, 2022, 05:56:11 pm »
Thanks, will give it a try.
Alarms, Immobilisers, and Security / Re: Key wont turn past on
« Last post by Art on 30 November, 2022, 04:53:45 am »
Does the barrel get lubricated as part of the service schedule? If I was a gambling man I 'd wager not and what you're experiencing is some corrosion or other contamination of the ignition switch. Lubricate the barrel and key then jiggle the key to free the barrel.
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