30 Nov 22, 20:29 pm

Recent Posts

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1
Alarms, Immobilisers, and Security / Re: Key won’t turn past “on”
« Last post by mike1950 on Today at 05:56:11 pm »
Thanks, will give it a try.
2
Alarms, Immobilisers, and Security / Re: Key won’t turn past “on”
« Last post by Art on Today at 04:53:45 am »
Does the barrel get lubricated as part of the service schedule? If I was a gambling man I 'd wager not and what you're experiencing is some corrosion or other contamination of the ignition switch. Lubricate the barrel and key then jiggle the key to free the barrel.
3
Alarms, Immobilisers, and Security / Key won’t turn past “on”
« Last post by mike1950 on Yesterday at 10:18:25 pm »
I put my CBF 1000 away til spring and tried to start it . Key won’t turn to start. Tried both keys. Everything worked fine til fall came. Any suggestions will be appreciated
4
General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical / Re: Bike won't fire
« Last post by ChrisT on 28 November, 2022, 12:32:27 pm »
*Originally Posted by jm2 [+]
Likely flooded, but some of this petrol being dragged out of tanks at the moment is causing all sorts of bikes minor/temporary running issues.

Is the bike at home (or somewhere safe and secure) ?
If so, charge up the battery overnight and follow the flooded engine procedure - turn over (5 secs) with the throttle fully open, pause for few minutes and then turn over again for a full 5 seconds.
Thanks for the advice - it worked for me.
5
Items Wanted / Re: Centre Stand For MK1 Non ABS 2009
« Last post by Art on 27 November, 2022, 01:34:36 pm »
https://www.cbf1000.com/index.php/topic,23538.0.html

Obviously you'll need the two springs too. Unclear if the exhaust silencers are the same, do you have the centre stand stop bracket and rubber on the underside of the right hand exhaust silencer and the cut out on the left hand exhaust heat shield?

6
Items Wanted / Centre Stand For MK1 Non ABS 2009
« Last post by BiffedUp on 27 November, 2022, 08:43:17 am »
Am based near Horsham
7
Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up / Re: lower steering stem bearing cup
« Last post by Art on 25 November, 2022, 10:46:47 am »
Well done, getting the cup square onto the stem is key.
8
yes, that's the point, it's done, so i can reflect on the difficulties with a cold beer instead of a cold floor !
 I did freeze the cup for a couple of hours to give myself the best chance and used a drill with a polishing bit on the inside of the stem. just kept on thinking i was doing something obviously wrong, in the (warm) light of day i think it was just awkward to get square, in retrospect i would probably take the fairing off to improve the access but those plastic sections can be so easy to damage, anyway i finally managed without excessive dismantling and it should be a while before i do it again.
I'm sure there will be another problem soon!
9
Suspension, Forks, Steering, and Chassis Set-up / Re: lower steering stem bearing cup
« Last post by Art on 25 November, 2022, 05:02:54 am »
May be light corrosion around the neck of the lower head stock? One trick is to put the cup in the freezer for an hour prior to fitting. You'd have been surprised the difference that would have made and contrary to popular myth an hour in the freezer will have no detrimental effect on the cup.

All's well that ends well

Happy Days
10
update on this is that all went well until the bottom cup, i just couldn't get it to drift in squarely, due to brake lines and the fact that i did the whole thing without removing bodywork it was difficult to get at it cleanly to tap round the edge with the old cup, as had worked perfectly on the top cup, it was a very tight fit even after a heat gun and polishing the inside of the steering head, to the extent that i checked i had bought the right kit, even though everything else fitted ok and it was the same size as the old cup.  In the end i got it as square as i could by hand then used the stem itself to get a decent start, even at this point it wasn't 100% square so I finished it with a normal threaded bar/washer arrangement and kept adusting it around the edge till it it was flush with the steering head, then it pulled in fairly ok. Possibly there's a minute difference with the cup for the roller bearing compared to the ball bearing cup i took out but i can't see why there should be.
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