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« Last post by Art on Today at 07:50:15 am »
Ridicballs explains how to make the 'ghetto cable' in that video You're not having much luck with that SC64. Assuming by " replace the lock and reprogram the system" you mean 'replace the ignition switch and programme the key to the system' If you’re allowed spanners and you haven't already, you may want to download the Honda Workshop and Owners Manuals here. Section 19 page 22 should be a good read. Lots of information can be found via the 'search function' too, such as how to reprogramme the keyOr if you want an off the peg 'ghetto cable' there are plenty on eBay search "Honda HISS key program cable" don't worry if it's for a CBR1000, VFR800 or whatever, so long as it's for a Honda HISS key they all do the one thing. They connect to the battery and loom side of the CKP sensor connector to signal the ECM.
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« Last post by keithriley on Yesterday at 08:02:44 pm »
PM sent
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« Last post by Kevin t on Yesterday at 06:31:30 pm »
ok guys, got the bike up and running but would like some spare keys, i found some on fleebay but need coding, anyone got a link for such a cable or maybe have one knocking about, cheers.
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« Last post by Art on 19 September, 2023, 11:01:02 am »
Top tip right there ^^^
My top box is never without a small squirty bottle of oil and tooth brush for as and when, especially useful on those 2,500 mile sorties I tend to do two or three times a year. Not so much on the shorter sorties where a goodly pre ride chain lube is normally good for 1,000 miles.
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« Last post by marky99925 on 19 September, 2023, 10:44:56 am »
The only other thing i would add is having looked at the relative cost of ep 80/90 against the sprays over 9 years is the ep80/90 is massively cheaper, i brush it on after most rides and the last chain did about 25k, i even take a small bottle and a brush on holiday, going to portugal on friday and the oil is already in the topbox.
It will never be as convenient as the squirty stuff but when were bikes ever convenient !
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« Last post by Art on 19 September, 2023, 07:37:03 am »
Drive chain maintenance and lubrication is the same regardless of manufacturer or model of motorcycle or the type of drive chain fitted. Do whatever has worked for you in the past, the only variance will be drive chain slack which varies according to suspension and swinging arm geometry.
I mostly lubricate the drive chain with left overs from engine oil changes (Motul 5000 10W-40) applied with a tooth brush and I put up with whatever fling that produces. If you want to reduce drive chain fling to a minimum, as marky99925 says and Honda recommend, use an EP 80 or 90 gear oil and after application wipe off any surplus oil with an oily rag.
Remember the point of drive chain lubrication is to maintain the external appearance and prevent corrosion from forming on the link plates which can spread past the 'X' ring seals and seize the link pins.
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« Last post by marky99925 on 18 September, 2023, 11:42:19 pm »
Hi
I ve had my mk1 for 9 years and all i can ever remember using on the chain is EP80/90 oil as honda recommend, dont like the gooey sprays, they just attract all sorts of grit and cover the wheel and back of the bike in goo as well
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« Last post by VITO on 18 September, 2023, 04:09:46 pm »
Which grease books for chain lubrication for the 2011 HONDA CBF1000TA motorcycle
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« Last post by Art on 16 September, 2023, 12:07:41 pm »
Open the image in MS Picture Manager or whatever software and reduce the size, I think it needs to be less than 1MB
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« Last post by paul.chucky on 16 September, 2023, 08:50:58 am »
tried that Art it just tells me the image is TOO BIG  
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