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Offline chubbleybear

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #20 on: 13 June, 2011, 06:18:07 PM »
SafferSteve, you need to contact Chief O'Brien on Deep Space 9...he can fix anything, even when it's full of Cardassian Voles.

Just remember not to get the antimatter flux out of alignment or...... KABOOM!  :008:
No good deed goes unpunished.

Offline pedro

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #21 on: 13 June, 2011, 07:38:36 PM »
All I know is that when busting ghosts, you can't cross the streams because it's "very bad" and anything over warp factor ten and (Scots accent) "She'll never take it captain"!

Having now obviously demonstrated my expertise in this area, am I right in thinking that you (SafferSteve) would be able to get/make a gubbins (technical, I know, but keep up) that plugs into the bike and a computer, is able to diagnose and suchlike at a fraction of the cost of dropping your bike off for the Honda Monkeys to play with?

Because if you can, I forsee a great demand...... :084:

Offline arizonarocket

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #22 on: 14 June, 2011, 05:53:27 AM »
*Originally Posted by markw [+]
Interesting subject, one of which I would like to know more about.
Is the diagnostic protocol different to what is used on cars or is a specific standard (e.g. ISO14230) applicable to both?
Not sure if you're aware but there are interface IC's which you can buy off the shelf which take a lot of the hard work out of the comm's... http://www.elmelectronics.com/obdic.html

Cheers, Mark.

Count me in too.  Very interesting.  It sure would be nice to have our own Diagnostic tool for retrieving OBD codes.


Offline nbells

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #23 on: 14 June, 2011, 12:49:33 PM »
Wow ..... thought this thread had died over a year ago !

If you have an old laptop with a usb port ..... then its £7 for the software and £15 for the cable

Do a search for OBDII software and forums  :001:

I had to register at one forum last year, then was able to access Honda compatabile Software.

If your really interested in OBD's then you'll know what to search for !!!!!

Make a mistake and you could toast your ecu.

nbells   :300:

Offline arizonarocket

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #24 on: 14 June, 2011, 04:04:04 PM »
Hmmm .... a new toy!!  Thank nbells  :031:

Offline Mark91

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #25 on: 04 May, 2020, 10:15:56 PM »
Hello!

I tried to read out issue codes with a cable on the DLC connector, but unfortunatelly I jumped the Green (ground) - O/W  or the O/W - Bl/W cables if I remind well.

Could make any problems these jumps or I do not have to worry about it ? 
(Later I found the G-B jumps)

Thank you for your helps.

Offline Art

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #26 on: 05 May, 2020, 07:01:08 AM »
Does this help you find the right (brown - green) pair?


Offline Mark91

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #27 on: 05 May, 2020, 11:19:19 PM »
YES :)  :046: Thank you very much.

I did not see the colours under the bandage tape, and firstly I saw in the service manual. So that is the reason of my mistakes.

Offline spinspin

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #28 on: 27 May, 2020, 11:18:30 PM »
This is probably a bit late for those who originally posted this but I may have stumbled across the answer they were looking for, someone decided to use a Raspberry Pi to read his CTX-700. Anyhow the page has got a lot of detail on how to connect up and extract information from the ECU.
https://gonzos.net/projects/ctx-obd/

Just as relevant for anyone looking to play with their ECU may be http://forum.pgmfi.org/
The more I've been reading the way forward for those who want more power & or fuel economy from their bike seems to be to bin off the mechanical upgrades and get the ECU remapped.

I came to this while I was looking at power commanders that piggyback the ECU, I'm wondering if its possible to have multiple maps available which seem possible on the V, i.e. a standard map, eco map, a power map, maybe a wet weather map.

I found this really difficult to understand when I was first looking at it  :157: so to summarise for anyone else wondering how I've come to consider this:
Euro 3 emissions regulations mean you can't have any unspent fuel in the exhaust system manufacturers stop this happening by causing the engine to lean, this also makes it run hot (although I still don't quite understand why that happens, although its also the reason some bikes now require iridium spark plugs as they are more durable at increased temperatures)
What this means by default is that at low RPM the bike is a bit jumpy on the throttle, and when you accelerate you will be giving it a handful of throttle. All the ECU modifications (very) basically inject more juice in to your engine, makes it run cooler, gives it more power and better fuel economy by virtue of the fact that you're more likely to run in a lower gear and be less ham fisted with the throttle. This means there is a bit of unspent fuel in your exhaust which makes emissions regulators sad  :003:

ODB2 connectors are an international standard for cars, however the wording in the legislation only referred to cars so manufacturers chinned off the standard for motorbikes and did whatever they fancied, because why not?

Offline raYzerman

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Re: Honda Diagnostic - DLC connection - K-line
« Reply #29 on: 27 July, 2020, 07:57:55 PM »
It is my understanding all FI systems use a 'fuel cut', to prevent any injector pulse when throttle rolled off to zero, then engine runs dry until throttle applied.  The intake system "re-wets" and of course burns the fuel, and you will get what's called throttle snatch.  A Power Commander won't cure this, but you can add fuel into your map at lower rpms to lessen the effect.  Only a reflash of the ECU to eliminate the fuel cut will fix it (ECU reflasher folks know how to do this if they have the code).
The other thing you can do to reduce throttle snatch is to reduce the throttle cable freeplay to near zero, training yourself to not roll off to zero as much in certain situations (slow down and coast to where you can continue at a steady pace with a bit of throttle, works in the twisties in a lower gear), or modify the cam on the throttle tube to have a slower initial pull (or buy a Throttle Tamer aftermarket one).
In any event, compared to some other bikes, the Biffer feels OK to me in stock form.  All Ive done is keep the throttle cable freeplay at near zero.  Performance is OK to me with the standard fuel mapping.
« Last Edit: 27 July, 2020, 07:59:10 PM by raYzerman »