Rought acceleration in 2nd/3th gear and engine stall

[obcinar]

Dear riders/friend iam kindly asking your for help, since i have problem with mine bike that i just cant solve. All shops are to busy this days for serius check of bike.Thank you in advance for your tips. Here is problem:

Bike:
MK2, 2010, 65 000km (i get it in 2010 with 3000km)
Cold Bike:
-   Starts normal,
-   In neutral it runs normal/smooth at 1500rpm
-   Performance of the bike is same as last 13 years…
After some time of driving i have this problem:
-   Acceleration in 2nd and 3th gear is realy rought/delay with some unknown sound...
-   In 1st gear, after releasing clutch it goes rought for few meters and engine stall.
-   In neutral its not stable it goes from 1300rpm to 1700rpm (aprox) and sound of engine is not just not the way it shoud be.

I maintain mine bike regulary, sparplugs where changed after this problem, but its still the same.

Greetings Robi

[Art]

Was any work carried out between running OK and running rough?

What spark plugs did you fit?

Are there any current or stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's)? There's a how to read DTC's here

Other root causes could be faulty: ignition system; fuel system or fuel pump; idle air control valve; exhaust gas circulation valve or an intake manifold leak, or out of specification valve clearances. Obviously you don't want to be willy nilly changing parts, prove a part is faulty or failed by methodical testing and diagnosis before replacing.

[obcinar]

Thank your for your answer.

No work was done it just happened...

[Art]

So...

Originally Posted by Art

What spark plugs did you fit?

Are there any current or stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's)? There's a how to read DTC's here

Are you going to check for any stored DTC's?

[obcinar]

Yes, thats the plan. Actully i never did that before. I hope i can do it. I just need to translete your post (linked one) and i hope i can do it.
I need to check whats sparkplug are, but since problem is same before i change it and now, probably those are not problem this time.

[keithriley]

Hi Robi,

Sounds like a very similar issue I've had on another Honda and it's pointing towards the ignition coils, HOWEVER, as Art rightly pointed out, without proper fault finding and testing you could just be guessing.

[obcinar]

Thank your for advice.. Ill send updates and ask for more help if ignition cols must be changed.

[obcinar]

I read code today and i got 8 short blinks (then pause and 8 again, pause 8 again), that means its TP sensor, as i read from manuals.
Since problem came after sometime of driving, probably conections are ok. So i need to change that sensor?
I kindly ask for opinimum if i can do it by myself?
Thank you guy in advance and greeting from Slovenia.

[Art]

DTC 8 is indeed the Throttle Position (TP) sensor and it has caused many a proper headache because it's only available from Honda as part of the throttle Body Assembly (part No. 1630-MFA-DO2) but take heart…

First you need to test the sensor and the wiring to the sensor because the fault could be either. If you do find the TP sensor is faulty and need to replace it Moh seems to have found a car TP sensor that will do the job, have a read here

[Art]

I should have mentioned...

There are two Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 8's and unfortunately the jumper wire method to read DTC's cannot tell them apart because it only flashes the main digit 8, the two full codes are:
DTC 8.1 TP sensor circuit low voltage (< 0.3 V with throttle closed) suspect a sensor or circuit fault.
DTC 8.2 TP sensor circuit high voltage (>4.93 V with the throttle fully open) suspect a connector or circuit fault.

The Throttle Position (TP) sensor and it's wiring can be tested as follows (the procedure is mostly explained in the Workshop Manual Section 5 Fuel System (PGM-FI) .
With the battery fully charged and the Run switch & Ignition switched on (don't start the engine) using a small pin to back probe the TP sensor connector and check:
voltage from the ECM, yellow/red wire to the battery negative terminal, expect 4.75v to 5.25v;
ground, yellow/red wire to green/orange wire, expect the same voltage as red/yellow wire to the battery negative terminal;
signal voltage to the ECM, red/yellow wire to green/orange wire, expect 0.5v with the throttle closed and a steady increase to 5v as the throttle opened to full throttle.

Note it is not necessary to run the engine when testing but testing should be be carried out under similar conditions that the rough running occured which was with the engine at normal operating temperature.