New chain & sprockets

[motorhead13]

2006 ABS model

Just a quick one, I'm about to fit a new chain & sprockets for the first time on the CBF (done it on other bikes fefore), any tips please and I take it it needs to be in gear to remove the front sprocket bolt?

Thanks

[Steelworker]

With the bike on centre stand I use a piece of wood laid across top of the swing arm to lock the rear wheel when undoing the front sprocket. I think it's only about 54nm tight so will release fairly easily.

[motorhead13]

Thanks for the reply. 👍

Sounds like a good method, think I tried it before possibly on a ninja.

[Art]

The CBF is no different to many other mo'cycles, if you've done this job before without issue you'll be fine. A piece of wood through the rear swinging arm works to lock the back wheel up when removing the front sprocket bolt, I prefer the rear brake and crack the rear sprocket nuts before removing the rear wheel, they are tight and can be stubborn. Where you need to pay most attention is linking the chain (pressing the link plate and flaring the chain rivets) check the chain manufacturers specification for the rivet flair as it varies from chain to chain and manufacturer to manufacturer. If you remove the gear shift pivot bolt pay attention to the assembled order (washer and dust seals) and refit with grease to the pivot and a medium strength threadlock on the threads taking care not to mix the grease and threadlock.

Top tips- Grease the gearbox output shaft splines before fitting the front sprocket, check your work (chain slack/alignment, front sprocket bolt, rear sprocket nuts, chain link rivets etc) after 500 to 1,000 miles.

[Steelworker]

Before you remove the gear shift arm from the spindle , make a mark on each ( felt pen dot works) so that they line up correctly when the arm goes back on.

[motorhead13]

Awesome advice, thank you guys.

Yes I'm happy I should be OK doing it but every bike can have its own little tricks it's worth knowing. Marking the gear shift arm is a great tip and the order of the washers.

[Art]

I've heard tell of marking the gearshift arm against the gearshift spindle before and I'm not sure why this would be necessary. There are two indent marks, one on the arm and one one the spindle, just note how they line up before removal.

[Rick]

I changed my chain and sprockets a about a year ago on my SC58 at 20900 miles. From measurements I estimated it would easily last to around 24000 miles however, as I was going on a 4 day trip I decided to edge on the safe side. I took the swinging arm off at the same time to check and grease the bearings, all was ok but there was not much sign of grease. After taking advice from a local motorcycle repair mechanic/ parts supplier I purchased a CZ 530 DZX chain and RK sprockets from him, he joined the chain for me (saved me buying joining equipment) and I then completed the fitting. The cost was just under £100 all in which I think is good value for a complete new drive system. The original drive sprocket had no sign of any grease on the splines so there was plenty of the red dust, I used molybdenum dark grey grease fitting the new one. The old sprockets showed very little signs of wear.
As Art points out the most important point is the joining of the new chain, its only as good as the weakest link, and getting it done professionally meant it was done properly with good quality tools. It depends on your time and ability but to me it makes good sense to take the swinging arm off for a bearing check/re-grease at the same time as changing the chain and sprockets.