MK II LED high and Low beam

[Mark91]

Hi Everybody,

I tried to find it, but I did not find anything what is exactly releated to this topic. 

Has anybody tried to replace the original H7 bulbs to LED in the MKII?
I am thinking about to install the new Osram H7 or the Philips H7 LEDs with the passive cooling. Does it enough place to install it without any modification?

The bigger heat load is not damage the headlamp?

Thank you very much for share your experiences. 

[Art]

Is there any particular reason why you want LED's?

I hear that LED H7 equivalents dazzle and I suspect that when fitted in a CBF1000 headlamp will prematurely fail due to insufficient ventilation or moisture ingress. The SC64 and SC58 headlamps are virtually the same, what works for one will work for the other. I find the main beam which uses the same 12v 55W H7 halogen bulb satisfactory because it has a main beam projector lens.

I solved the poor dip beam issue on my SC58 with a cheap as chips HID conversion kit off of ebay, cost less than £10 back in 2015. Still doing what it does 8 years later and what it does is light up the road without dazzling oncoming vehicles, and I believe HIDs now pass the latest MOT regulations too. Installation is simple, I just fitted 6.4 mm male spade crimp connectors to the HID ballast wiring and plugged those into the appropriate connections on the H7 bulb holder. I keep the old H7 bulb under the pillion seat which can be used as a replacement for either the dipped beam HID bulb or the the main beam H7 bulb. One thing I did notice and this was random, occasionally the HID ballast would lockout when the starter motor circuit cut power to headlamp before the ballast had warmed up, fixed by way of a headlamp on/off switch.

[iNCORRIGIBLE]

Thanks,Art. Excellent info.Ed.

[Mark91]

Thank you for your answer.

I have no special reason, just I would like to improve a little bit the low beam and I thought the street legal LED would be a good idea.
But I would not like to cut the lamp`s house or modify the wireing, so that`s the reason why I would like to ask it first and in the second hand I would not like to burn the stock lens.

And I was corious for the experiences with these LEDs, because is not everybody full satisfied with them.

[Rev Ken]

I prefer HID modification - but get good ones, not cheap Chinese versions with less than rigorous quality standards!

[Goffry77]

Greetings. Soon I will mount an LED set, which is the technology of the moment, with a passive heatsink (without fan). It is installed plug and play and has no additional control units. Obviously the headlight covers have to be modified: both because there is not enough space and because the heat has to be dissipated. For those who have doubts, I would like to clarify that the LEDs are waterproof and do not fear humidity. I will post photos of the modification to the headlight caps, which can be found new on WISH for 20 euros, including shipping.

[Goffry77]

Greetings. In the end I ordered these, which have the same dimensions as the originals and do not require modifications to the headlight caps. They have no can bus, but we don't need them. Thanks to Black Friday I paid 30 euros instead of 60. Next week I will mount them and let you know if they actually improve the visibility, as well as the aesthetics.

[Art]

In my experience the issues with LED's are two fold Brightness and Overheating. By way of experimentation I fitted LED stop/tail  and side lamps. The illuminations were less than the stock bulbs and the stop lamp could only be seen at close quarters, four car lengths back and it went unnoticed. The front side lamps overheated and burnt out within about 50 hours use. At the time I also had LED's for the headlamps and indicators but was so disappointed with the stop/tail and sides they never got fitted. There are many singing, dancing and praising reports on here of the initial experiences and benefits of LED conversions but no mention of service life. If I was a gambling man I'd wager that is because over time LED upgrades are very disappointing. Come back from time to time and let us know how they last.

[Goffry77]

I took the used bike (MK2 from 2010), and it already comes with the LED stop as standard (and those are necessarily fine). In addition, the old owner also fitted the LED position lights, which shed a lot of light and continue to work well. On my car I replaced 2 small bulbs (glovebox and trunk) with two new LEDs, very very bright. After a few years, everything still works as it should. On the Kawasaki GTR 1400, I had put a pair of Philips H4 LEDs with passive heatsink, which however was external to the headlight body: definitely valid as a result, which was also quite natural. I do not know these lamps, but if, as I believe, they are not too bright, they should also last the right amount. The bulk of the problems are due to overheating, as you have already said, but, if the product is of quality and not exasperated in performance, it should also last. Let's not deny that on parabola, too many lunen are uncontrollable as an emission beam, beyond the architecture of the lamp.

[Goffry77]

I installed the led bulbs for the headlights, the yield is amazing, even more if we consider that they are with passive heat sink inside the dish. The low beam is very good while the high beam is crazy: daylight, width and depth excellent. I believe that a lot depends on the shape of the parables. The operating voltage has gone from 14.3V to 14.6V (MK2 comes standard with a MOSFET voltage regulator which solved the old stator problem), which indicates the lowest power consumption, and improves the charging performance of the battery.



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