Author Topic: Changing the water  (Read 1411 times)

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Offline alan sh

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Changing the water
on: 15 May, 2021, 05:16:37 PM
I was thinking of doing it on mine and my wife's bikes (MK2 and MK1). Having done my 1300, I was thinking 'how hard can it be'?

Well, too hard. You have to take all the bodywork off just to get to the radiator cap. What drongo came up with that design.

Alan
Red MK II with full luggage, MRA screen, hugger, crash bungs, heated grips and Autocom.
CB1300SA with a few bits.
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#1

Online Art

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #1 on: 15 May, 2021, 05:23:31 PM
Stop whinging and get on with it, its a leisurely mornings work to complete both and a good opportunity to inspect the fuel lines etc.

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Offline Rick

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #2 on: 11 June, 2021, 03:47:09 PM
Prestone 4L coolant/antifreeze, ready to use, currently half price 7 at Tesco, all makes all models, it states 10 year guarantee on label, has anyone used this or know of any issues. Looking at comparison charts is silicate free and appears to be ok for cbf.   
Last Edit: 11 June, 2021, 03:55:33 PM by Rick

#3

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #3 on: 14 June, 2021, 02:39:02 PM
It is what it is, however, I recommend thoroughly flushing any cooling system before changing types or brands of coolant, especially on the CBF1000 where it's impossible to completely drain the system without removing the radiator, oil cooler and most of the hoses. Which is why I prefer mixing coolant myself, see below. My choice of coolant is Triple QX red concentrated antifreeze from Euro Car Parts mixed 50:50 with de-ionised water also from Euro Car Parts. The manufacturers give what I consider to be a more realistic claim of a 5 year service life. One of the first jobs I do when acquiring a new to me vehicle is to flush the cooling system and replace the coolant using Triple QX red antifreeze in all my vehicles.

Top tip - When draining the system measure how much comes out, the capacity for the CBF1000 including the expansion tank is 3L, having measured what comes out you'll then realise how much is left in, which is why I use a concentrated coolant. Here's how I do it - Drain the system and flush it by refilling with de-ionised water, run the engine until the fan kicks in, allow to cool and drain. Repeat this procedure two or three times until more or less clear water drains from the system. When you drain the last system flush measure how much comes out then mix 1.5L of concentrated coolant with sufficient de-ionised water to equal the amount drained, the 50:50 mix will then be made up with what de-ionised water was left in the system. Run the engine to operating temperature again, leave overnight to go cold and if necessary top up with de-ionised water.

You will not get a complete coolant replacement like this at any garage.

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Offline Rick

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #4 on: 14 June, 2021, 07:58:37 PM
You're right Art, you certainly wouldn't get that at any garage! Thanks very much for you're thorough detailed advice. Rick

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Offline Teeron

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #5 on: 20 June, 2021, 12:12:03 AM
Instead of starting new topic i decided to ask here. I changed my coolant and since battling with air in the system. Is it normal when u start the bike with open cap that the level coolant is rising? For me it is and i have to stop the bike.

#6

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #6 on: 20 June, 2021, 12:03:18 PM
Remove the radiator cap and fill the system at the filler neck to just below the overflow pipe
Remove the expansion tank cap and fill the expansion tank to the full line
Start engine and let it idle for 3 minutes, snap the throttle 3 or 4 times
Stop the engine, top up filler neck to just below the overflow pipe and refit the radiator cap
Top up the expansion tank to the full line and refit expansion tank cap

The filler neck should not overflow because any expansion of coolant will divert to the expansion tank via the filler neck overflow pipe.

#7

Offline Teeron

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #7 on: 20 June, 2021, 12:34:28 PM
but the filler neck is overflowing , thats the whole problem , so whats the problem?

#8

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #8 on: 20 June, 2021, 05:36:52 PM
Probably nothing but you may want to check that a thermostat is fitted and that it is not stuck in the open position. How long are you allowing the engine to idle?

The coolant flows up from the cylinder block, through the thermostat housing and into the top of the radiator. The coolant will take the path of least resistance, if the radiator cap is off and the thermostat has opened or is missing or stuck open then the path of least resistance is out through the filler neck. If the thermostat is missing or stuck open replace it. If the thermostat is as it should be, switch the engine off, top up to the filler neck overflow and refit the radiator cap, top up the expansion tank and refit the expansion tank cap and you should be more or less done.

Check the coolant level in the expansion tank first thing in the morning when the engine is cold, topping up to the fill line as necessary.
Last Edit: 20 June, 2021, 06:01:33 PM by Art

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Offline Teeron

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Re: Changing the water
Reply #9 on: 20 June, 2021, 06:19:26 PM
I am flushing system once again with de ionised water and making apple cake. How will I know if thermostat is working fine ? Fan is kicking and that's how long i leave the engine on with the cap on. If cap is off after 20 sec coolant is overflowing .Generally I followed the guide from fireblader.dk.
Last Edit: 20 June, 2021, 06:24:18 PM by Teeron