Author Topic: Short Honeymoon  (Read 756 times)

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Offline Marcswales

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Short Honeymoon
on: 19 April, 2021, 09:59:42 AM
That was a short and sweet honeymoon, refused to start, flat battery. It's on charge, and whilst I'm there I'm taking the fag lighter out and replacing it with a voltmeter, what's next (It's had a replacement stator at some time in the past) once the battery is charged and I've got it running, check the running voltage or go straight for the yellow wires?

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Online jm2

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #1 on: 19 April, 2021, 12:24:44 PM
Slow down.

First checks after you've recharged the battery would be a 'charging check' - voltmeter across said battery noting figures from off (after a rest from charging - ideally overnight)/startup/idle/running at 5k rpm (with full lights on).
Only do it right - no bodging please.   Keeper of the failed stator list.   John.

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Offline Art

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #2 on: 19 April, 2021, 01:35:11 PM
+1 The charging system comprises of and the order to check it is: 1) battery; 2) wiring including terminals, connections, chassis ground and fuse; 3) stator;
4) regulator/rectifier.

So first things first check the battery for standby level of charge, rested after fully charging expect around 12.6 to 12.9v from a good battery. If you want to check the charging system and I would, check the voltage across the battery terminals and expect 13.2v at 1,200 RPM (idling on tick over) and 14.2v at 5,000 RPM across the battery terminals. If you're getting those numbers you're good to go. If you suffer a flat battery again the battery will be the prime suspect and should be tested for standby current drain, cold cranking amps, voltage drop and loading.

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Offline Marcswales

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #3 on: 19 April, 2021, 02:26:17 PM
After fiddling and going back and forth and trying it this morning, I've taken the battery off , to stop me trying it, left it on charge  and will start again at 17:00.

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Offline Marcswales

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #4 on: 19 April, 2021, 05:21:36 PM
13.2 on the charger
12.8 off the charger
12.2 when the ignition is turned on
10. X when cranking
13.2 at idle
13.8 at  5k.

Last Edit: 19 April, 2021, 05:34:19 PM by Marcswales

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Offline Marcswales

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #5 on: 19 April, 2021, 05:23:27 PM
Walk away from it now and try it  on the meter, tomorrow evening.


You can never make an informed decision without data.

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Offline Art

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #6 on: 20 April, 2021, 09:58:25 AM
Next test the wiring loom its cables, connectors, fuse and grounding points. The procedure here is mostly explained in the Honda and Haynes Workshop Manuals and in ElectroSport's Fault Finding Flow Chart. If you haven't already you can download the Honda Workshop and Owners Manuals here and the ElectroSport Fault Finding Flow Chart for motorcycle charging systems here

Here's my idiots guide and how I do it...

Test the wiring loom
1) Select the 20v DC range on the multimeter and with the ignition switched on but the engine not running check that the voltage across the regulator/rectifier red and green output cables is equal to the voltage across the battery terminals.

2) Connect the black multimeter probe to the battery positive terminal, connect the red multimeter probe to the regulator/rectifier red output cable, with the engine running at 1,200 RPM expect less than 0.2v. If greater than 0.2v disconnect, clean and check all terminals, connections and the main 30A fuse in the positive (red) cable between the regulator/rectifier and the battery positive terminal.

3) Connect the red multimeter probe to the battery negative terminal, connect the black multimeter probe to the regulator/rectifier green output cable, with the engine running at 1,200 RPM expect less than 0.2v. If greater than 0.2v disconnect, clean and check all terminals, connections and chassis ground points in the negative (green) cable between the regulator/rectifier, chassis grounds and the battery negative terminal. Or splice a 27A ground cable into the green cable on the loom side of the regulator/rectifier connector and run this direct to the battery negative terminal.

Test the stator
1) Disconnect the stator to regulator/rectifier three pin white connector and test for continuity between the three yellow output cables from the stator and chassis ground or the battery negative terminal. Expect no continuity, if there is continuity that means one or more of the stator coils has burnt out and the stator will need replacing or rewinding.

2) Select the 200Ω range on the multimeter and test the resistance between each pairing of the three yellow output cables from the stator. Expect three equal readings in the range 0.1Ω to 1Ω, if any readings are outside this range the stator is faulty and will need replacing or rewinding.

3) Select the 200v AC range on the multimeter and with the engine running at 5,000 RPM test the stator output voltage between each pairing of the three yellow output cables from the stator. Expect three equal readings of 40v AC, if the readings are not equal or less than 30v AC the stator is faulty and will need replacing or rewinding.

#7

Offline Marcswales

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #7 on: 20 April, 2021, 05:37:56 PM
24hrs later...


2.8 off the charger
12.2 when the ignition is turned on
10. X when cranking
13.2 at idle
13.8 at  5k.


A snoozette I think then start going through Art's list

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Offline Philby21

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #8 on: 20 April, 2021, 08:47:52 PM
How long after taking it of charge are you checking the battery voltage?  Might be worth leaving a while (1hr+) and then testing it, possibly even charge it then leave it off charge overnight then test it, if the voltage has dropped then you have your answer - the battery isn't holding charge and is goosed.

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Offline Art

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Re: Short Honeymoon
Reply #9 on: 21 April, 2021, 08:11:08 AM
24 hours later...

After fully charging the battery you can obtain an accurate level of charge reading by turning the ignition on (headlamp on) for a minute or so to get rid of any surface charge. If the battery is suspect or you suspect a standby current drain measure the level of charge at 24 hour intervals to check that its holding that charge.

Whenever mine hasn't been used for a while I check the battery's level of charge the night before a ride. I have a dedicated battery charger jump lead for this which means that I only have to lift the rear seat to connect the multimeter.