Suspension Usual Settings

[knapdog]

I'm 83kg.
My mk2 front forks have three rings showing, which is what the handbook recommends for normal riding.
The rear shock has seven settings (1 Soft to 7 Hard) plus the little S -H dial at the bottom.
I have my rear shock on number 4 ( handbook says Normal is 3).
Now I shan't be getting my measuring tape out to test my "sag" or any other part of me.
I shan't be buying Hagon, Dagon, Ohlin or Bohlin at any time soon. I doubt if I'd be able to tell the difference anyway. There must be thousands like me who just want to keep it simple with what we've been given.
All I want to know is what would be regarded as the best settings for someone of my weight for everyday riding plus what to do when I have my side panniers and top Box on for my summer tour.

[jm2]

A tape measure and assistant is the way to go because you need the static sags set right before anything else counts.  But if you're determined not to do that, try:-
Set the rear pre-load all the way until it is noticable too firm (if it gets that far) and then back it off one step.
Initally, set the rear dampening to mid to begin with (go all the way S<>H and count the turns/proportion of turn and find mid).
Initally set the front dampening to 3 rings showing.
Wait until 29th March and go out around your favourite test route (suspenion demanding route - awkward turns, hallows etc).
Tweak to suit, in stages - rear preload first, front rebound second and rear dampening third.

You'll likely find your rear preload set to harder than your expected (add more if pillion/luggage etc).  I played a lot with the fronts as I found it rather harsh and softened it up but this wasn't the answer and I think it best left a little harsh but responsive.  I can't remember where everyting is set on mine but it has been through 'suspension training' and is probably the best I can get/notice using the standard parts.  It is still budget suspension so maybe don't expect too much.

But sags is the right way to do it.

[knapdog]

Many thanks for your considered, detailed reply. 

[YDraig]

Originally Posted by jm2

A tape measure and assistant is the way to go because you need the static sags set right before anything else counts.  But if you're determined not to do that, try:-
Set the rear pre-load all the way until it is noticable too firm (if it gets that far) and then back it off one step.
Initally, set the rear dampening to mid to begin with (go all the way S<>H and count the turns/proportion of turn and find mid).
Initally set the front dampening to 3 rings showing.
Wait until 29th March and go out around your favourite test route (suspenion demanding route - awkward turns, hallows etc).
Tweak to suit, in stages - rear preload first, front rebound second and rear dampening third.

You'll likely find your rear preload set to harder than your expected (add more if pillion/luggage etc).  I played a lot with the fronts as I found it rather harsh and softened it up but this wasn't the answer and I think it best left a little harsh but responsive.  I can't remember where everyting is set on mine but it has been through 'suspension training' and is probably the best I can get/notice using the standard parts.  It is still budget suspension so maybe don't expect too much.

But sags is the right way to do it.

TBH,  the above sounds like more  faff than actually measuring the static sag,  measuring the sag doesn't have to be super accurate, just ball park.  If it feels ok as is and if you have the spring on 4 at 83kg load then unless it doesn't move when you sit on it leave that where it is if you can't be bothered to measure it. It might 'feel' softer by backing off preload but it's not really, it's just more likely to bottom out.  Likewise going to high on the preload will allow the suspension to top out.  either will result in a harsh hard feeling ride. Getting the best compromise of compliance without bottoming or topping out is the goal.  To do that the suspension at both ends needs to be in the designed sweet spot for the spring and dampers: that is usually somewhere between 25%-30% of the damper stroke.  Damping itself is much more subjective and dependent on riding style and road surface, as well as load.  83kg seems lightish to me so probably more rebound damping than midsetting and compression damping less than midsetting.  Go for a ride, think about how well the suspension is  performing and which parameter you might change to improve it. Change just that one thing before the next ride. rinse and repeat until you know that it's the best compromise you can get.

[knapdog]

Can you change the preload on front suspension on a mk2? I thought the slotted part on the top was for damping.

[knapdog]

I have measured the fork from base of yoke to dust seal and that comes to 160mm.
If I wish 25% - 30% of travel then I'm looking for 40mm - 48mm, i.e. the measurement from when the front wheel is off the ground to when I sit on the bike with full biking gear on.
I have turned the slotted Spring Preload at the top of the forks four full revolutions to achieve 48mm such that there are now no rings showing and the Spring Preload is only 3/4 of a turn from fully in
I weigh 89kg with my gear on. 45mm travel would be my lowest amount of travel if I were to fully tighten the Spring Preload, I'm sure.
The manual shows that three rings should be showing for the standard setting and I'm way off that.
Have I done anything wrong?
I'm doing all I can to avoid upgrading the suspension.

[knapdog]

I've now screwed the front Spring Preload in fully and backed off a quarter turn to achieve a sag of 45mm.
I now have rear shock on position 3( hard) out of 7 and have a sag of 50mm.  Position 2 was too hard a ride for me.
Damping is a quarter turn towards hard from mid position
The ride is much better since I first started my observations (moaning) which is probably due to the front fork adjustments though both front and rear sag measurements are still outside the recommended levels from what I can gather.
Do you think changing the fork oil would make a difference?

[g5guzzi]

I had the same 45mm reading as you. 77kilo weight.
Fitted Hagon fork springs and got 35mm sag with the adjusters
set on the 3rd ring
Changing the fork oil wont alter the ride height.
Malc

[knapdog]

Originally Posted by g5guzzi

I had the same 45mm reading as you. 77kilo weight.
Fitted Hagon fork springs and got 35mm sag with the adjusters
set on the 3rd ring
Changing the fork oil wont alter the ride height.
Malc

Thanks, Malc.
Can you remember if the oil Hagon recommended was the same as what Honda recommends? If not, which did you use?
Any tips regarding the fitting of the new springs?

In addition, surely these sag figures we've had are the same for every cbf1000 out there and my guess is only a tiny percentage of owners are aware of it.

[g5guzzi]

Hagon specified a different weight oil for me and different oil height to the
Honda spec. Don't  know if riders weight makes a difference.
They can supply the oil with the springs. They will want to know your weight with all your kit on
and weight of pillion and luggage .
Malc