Author Topic: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral  (Read 5498 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

#30

Offline Art

  • CBF Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 1307
  • Bike: SC58 CBF1000 A-6
  • City / Town: Shoreditch
  • Country: england
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #30 on: 01 November, 2020, 10:20:25 PM
It doesn't get better than this an engine oil and stator thread all rolled into one :183:

#31

Offline Shed

  • CBF Master
  • ****
  • Posts: 443
  • City / Town: Newcastle
  • Country: england
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #31 on: 01 November, 2020, 10:25:08 PM
*Originally Posted by Art [+]
It doesn't get better than this an engine oil and stator thread all rolled into one :183:

 :008:
Just need to add in tyres now...

 :005: :168:

#32

Offline Crispy

  • CBF Pro
  • ***
  • Topic Author
  • Posts: 162
  • Country: cd
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #32 on: 01 November, 2020, 10:58:20 PM
Definition of synthetic in chemistry: a Pertaining to or involving chemical synthesis: produced by artificial synthesis, esp. in imitation of a natural substance. Also, made from synthetic materials rather than natural ones
b Artificial, imitation, invented.

Of course what constitutes fully synthetic is whatever the manufacturer adds to the oil. Its still man made as its been chemically altered by human beings into something that isnt natural.

 :114:

Id be more suspect of semi-synthetic, that sounds a right rip-off.

 :138:

#33

Offline Art

  • CBF Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 1307
  • Bike: SC58 CBF1000 A-6
  • City / Town: Shoreditch
  • Country: england
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #33 on: 02 November, 2020, 06:34:47 AM
In terms of asking price some engine oils are a proper rip off and in my experience that applies to fully synthetic oils more so than semi-synthetic oils. Forget the oil moguls hype but heed to their warning to check if an engine oil meets the engine manufacturers specification!

What is semi-synthetic engine oil? It's what Honda recommend!

Another definition of synthetic is fake  :016:

#34

Offline Crispy

  • CBF Pro
  • ***
  • Topic Author
  • Posts: 162
  • Country: cd
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #34 on: 02 November, 2020, 10:49:00 AM
I agree that some fully synthetic oils are a bit pricey, but I found the Putoline version to be reasonable.

Engines need to be bedded in before you can use fully synthetic. And Honda recommend 10w30 not 10w40 (unless you live in a warm climate).

According to my Haynes manual the oil should meet or exceed API SG and JASO MA. My oil states it meets standards API SN and JASO MA2, different codes completely.

Ive since found that API SG is obsolete technology because of the evolution in oils. JASO MA2 is also an improvement on MA, apparently it gives more friction to the wet clutch, for a less progressive clutch to a more grabby feel.

How it provides more friction and a lower viscosity at the same time, well, Im not a scientist.



Saving a little money on the difference in cost between a good oil and a cheap oil wont pay off if the engine is damaged.

#35

Offline vinciebhoy

  • CBF Member
  • **
  • Posts: 47
  • Bike: CBF1000A-8
  • City / Town: Paisley
  • Country: scotland
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #35 on: 02 November, 2020, 12:56:47 PM
I think my brain has the same cooling properties as the CBF1000 stator  :087:
Good discussion on oils and stator all rolled into one, well done Crispy. :009:

#36

Offline Art

  • CBF Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 1307
  • Bike: SC58 CBF1000 A-6
  • City / Town: Shoreditch
  • Country: england
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #36 on: 02 November, 2020, 01:02:29 PM
:211: If you read the Owners Handbook you will see that Honda recommend...

*Originally Posted by Art [+]
an engine oil that meets the JASO T903 standard MA with an API classification of SG or higher and a viscosity of 10W-30 and suggest 'Honda four stroke oil or equivalent. Honda also recommend the viscosity of the engine oil should be based on the average atmospheric temperatures in the riding area and gives the following as guidance

5W-30 for temperatures from -15C to +30C
10W-30 for temperatures from -10C to +30C
10W-40 for temperatures from -5C to +40C

Which means that API SJ, SL, SM & SN and JASO MA, MA1 & MA2 and multi grades 10W-30 & 10W-40 all more than meet the Honda specification here in the UK.

#37

Offline vinciebhoy

  • CBF Member
  • **
  • Posts: 47
  • Bike: CBF1000A-8
  • City / Town: Paisley
  • Country: scotland
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #37 on: 02 November, 2020, 01:37:48 PM
For any of you that use Castrol Power 1 10w 30
I got 3 litres for 20.97 from Carparts4less it's already discounted then you get a further 20% off using promotion code SCREAM99

https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/search/Castrol%20power1

#38

Offline Art

  • CBF Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 1307
  • Bike: SC58 CBF1000 A-6
  • City / Town: Shoreditch
  • Country: england
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #38 on: 02 November, 2020, 04:05:34 PM
If I didn't have 8L of Motul 10W-40 on the shelf I could have been up for that.

That's a good price for 3L of a semi synthetic API SJ, JASO M2 10W-30 and its Castrol a trusted big brand name too. Shame CarParts4less don't stock a Hiflofiltro Hiflo HF204 oil filter to go with it, you could have had an excellent all in engine oil replacement deal.

Happy Days

#39

Offline Scootyman

  • CBF Member
  • **
  • Posts: 59
  • Bike: CBF1000A6
  • City / Town: Dunfermline
  • Country: scotland
Re: CBF Engine Oil 10W30 vs 10W40 Synthetic vs Mineral
Reply #39 on: 14 November, 2020, 10:40:02 PM
*Originally Posted by Art [+]
Thanks Shed. The shocker was for Crispy and the oil will definitely be used within its service life.

On the stator front I'm not sure how the stator is oil cooled. When removing the stator casing it has an oil tight gasket and the stator has a light coating of engine oil about it but there is no oil inside to drain out. I think what happens is engine oil flows into the casing, over the flywheel/stator assembly and drains out at the bottom. here you can see the amount of oil inside the casing and the oily failed stator

I think it was also to do with the oil channels around the area of the stator not being large enough to cool efficiently. I believe that was addressed on the mark 2