Author [ES] [CA] [PL] [PT] [IT] [DE] [FR] [NL] [DK] [NO] [GR] [TR] Topic: Plenty of photos ... anyone have video of rear pad rplacement ABS three pistons?  (Read 565 times)

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Offline MikeV

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Hey there, I've seen still shots and have read how to instructions ...

However, does anyone have or have access to video of rear brake pad replacement for MK1 ABS three piston caliper they could please share?

I did just replace my rear pads ... what an ordeal!! Ended up having to remove the rear wheel, the main spring constantly fell out of place, the pads kept dropping out. At one point had the entire caliper off the bike as well. Mother of pearl!! And a few other choice words!  :013:
Drove me  :087:
It was a two person job!

I have read several posts whereby some are saying it is as easy as pie. Would love to it done without a hitch. How in the world did you keep the main pads spring from falling out of place? And keep the pads from slipping out??

Clearly I was doing something wrong ... any video on how to do it in 10 minutes? (Not three hours.)

Greatly appreciate  :465:

Cheers  :031:  ....  And Happy Canada Day, Eh!!   :062:


Offline NJD

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Follow these steps and you can remove the caliper from the bike without having to remove the rear wheel at all. It takes time, but less time than having to remove the rear wheel.

Note: if you've got standard exhaust can you will need to remove it as the pad retaining pin wont come out with the exhaust in place (differs if you've got aftermarket cans). Clamp on the lower part, and mounted via the luggage bolt and locknut on the other side of the foot-peg hanger.

1) Push the body of the caliper against the disc with some force (only hand) to push the pistons into the caliper and create some wiggle room
2) Remove the pad retaining pin and then the brake pads
3) Loosen, and remove, the 14 mm mounting bolt (a double ended combo ring spanner works best I find -- this shape https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UecAAOSw3ZRZATSP/s-l300.jpg)
4) Push the caliper all the way over to the right hand side, and now you'll see why the rear wheel needs to be removed (the sliding pin blocks it from being removed)
5) Grab a 12 mm spanner and loosen the locknut. This is the fiddliest part (on both removal and install). Its a small threaded insert into the caliper mounting bracket.
6) Once that's removed you can lift and remove the caliper and have all the space you need to clean it

Install

I tape the anti-rattle spring in place, and only once I have discovered melted tape on the top of the brake pad in all the miles I've covered. Made me think, but that's my bodge. Otherwise, as you say, it falls out. I'll take the chance. You can read and decide before you do it. I use 50 p tape from Asda and wrap it around a couple of times dead down the centre, and leave in place while I ride around (as in it stays there all the time).

1) Place the rear slider pin into the caliper body with copper grease on the threads, get it dead straight and feed it in by hand. You may constantly need to push against it to get the thread to bite. Its small and fiddly. Time and patience. Eventually you'll be able to get one side of the spanner and spin it towards the bracket. You're not trying to get the whole head around the nut, but rather use one side of the spanner open end face to literally spin. Once its at the end tighten it slightly. It really doesn't require a high level of torque.

2) Put the 14 mm slider bolt back in (and rubber insert inbetween caliper and mounting bracket if it fell out, or you've rmeoved it; BUT only slightly. Do not attempt to tighten it fully until the very end. This is key!

3) Brake pads. Use a mirror on a stick (tool) to make sure the pads fit into the metal retaining plate that sits in the caliper mounting bracket.

4) Pad pin and tighten into place fully.

5) 14 mm nut fully, you may need to pump the pistons via the brake pedal before tightening it fully. Reason I say on No. 2 its key is because the slider bolt will not fully tighten properly half way through the job. I've never figured out what it is but don't try and damage something.

Ride off into the sunset.

HTH.

To clarify this is where the 12 mm nut that is fiddly is located. Threaded insert, nut in the middle and a plain piece of metal (sliding) on the other side.. all one piece. Once you push the caliper all the way to the right with everything removed it will expose the nut under the rubber. First time you do it is fiddly, but afterwards you get the hang of it.

« Last Edit: 01 July, 2020, 10:51:28 PM by NJD »

Online Art

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Sounds to me as if you're not inserting the pads correctly. Understand the problem, its the same principal fitting the rear pads as the front pads, the difference is the orientation of the caliper so technique is key or gravity will do what gravity does and the pads fall out. With the front calipers the pads naturally drop onto the pivot tabs with the rear caliper you need to hold the pads on the pivot tabs. The trick here is to hold the caliper in the left hand and apply pressure with the left thumb against the pads as you insert them to keep them located on the pivot tabs at the back of the caliper. Once both pads have been inserted maintain the inward thumb pressure and also apply upward thumb pressure to compress the pad spring and insert the pad retaining pin.

Offline MikeV

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Thanks NJD, thanks Art.

My other big mistake ....  not posting this topic BEFORE I did the job!  :112:

The feedback makes so much more sense than the ordeal I went through!  :172:

Thanks.

Offline maxstu

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I followed this advice with good results. The 12mm slider post is fiddly to start with when attempting to fix back in caliper. However l found flicking the nut part of the post upwards with an open ended spanner soon got it going. And the more it inserts the more clearance the spanner gets.
Deffo make certain pads are in correct position before adding pin. So easy not to have pads located properly. You can view with a torch from side.
I bent the spring lugs inwards a bit to stop it falling out of caliper. And added a bit of grease to help hold in place too.
One other thing. I took off the right silencer and a metal cone spacer/gaskets fell out in bits and pieces. I used exhaust paste instead of replacing spacer.
« Last Edit: 24 September, 2020, 11:13:56 PM by maxstu »