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Offline Art

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #10 on: 12 November, 2019, 05:58:18 PM »
"used a long screwdriver on the case with my ear to it"

Been there and done that many a time but what you want, what you really really want, is a mechanics stethoscope. Cheap as chips off eBay

link
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hot-Car-Mechanics-Stethoscope-Engine-Diagnostic-Listen-Noise-Probe-Tools-Engine/362809497788?hash=item54792198bc:g:HeIAAOSw1IhcHH5y

Keeping the battery on a charger all the time is not a good idea when it comes to testing the voltages. Could be worthwhile leaving the charger off one night and put a multimeter across the battery terminals one cold morning to test the battery and measure the voltages. What to look for is
12.6v or more first thing before starting the engine (battery is holding voltage)
no less than 10.6v while the starter motor is cranking the engine into life (load test)
13.5v with engine at 2,500 RPM (charging system test indicating stator is OK)
14.8v with the engine at 5,00 RPM (charging system test indicating regulator rectifier is OK)

the battery voltage under load (while the starter motor is cranking the engine). If the voltage remains above 10.6v

Offline nivek24

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #11 on: 12 November, 2019, 07:10:12 PM »
rayzerman, i don't have clutch drag, i have started it in neutral and in gear no noticeable change, starter spins engine at same speed hot or cold.
i have only started using the optimate battery charger now the weather has gone cold, i had the battery checked just after i bought the bike, i can't remember the exact voltages, the lad at the garage told me the battery and charging system ok.
i would have thought the battery would have given up by now if it was faulty, it has not gone flat through the summer even after leaving it 2 or 3 weeks in the garage before using it.
i have a volt meter so will check it in the morning and see what volts i have.
Looks like i will have to remove the clutch cover and see if anything looks wrong, like someone said on here.
Just been looking at the manual, noticed the oil pump chain, does this have a tensioner on it, i could not make one out on the diagram

Offline raYzerman

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #12 on: 13 November, 2019, 12:45:15 AM »
It does not appear the oil pump chain has any tensioners or guides.  At 9k, I can't imagine the chain is very sloppy.
Being a relative newcomer to Biffers, while some bikes have cam chain tensioner issues, I haven't seen any negative info for Biffers.... if there were a broken or weak spring, the cam chain can slap, but it should vary somewhat with rpm... if not varying, then likely not the issue.  While you have that clutch cover off, keep some tension on the chain with a zip tie at the crankshaft end perhaps, then remove the tensioner to see if it has a broken spring?
 

Offline nivek24

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #13 on: 13 November, 2019, 11:20:16 AM »
*Originally Posted by raYzerman [+]
It does not appear the oil pump chain has any tensioners or guides.  At 9k, I can't imagine the chain is very sloppy.
Being a relative newcomer to Biffers, while some bikes have cam chain tensioner issues, I haven't seen any negative info for Biffers.... if there were a broken or weak spring, the cam chain can slap, but it should vary somewhat with rpm... if not varying, then likely not the issue.  While you have that clutch cover off, keep some tension on the chain with a zip tie at the crankshaft end perhaps, then remove the tensioner to see if it has a broken spring?
Good idea rayzerman will do that when i remove the case.
I did the battery voltage readings this morning after the optimate was disconnected and got the following readings
   13.17v   after optimate disconnected.
   11.94v ign on and headlights.
     9.4v cranking, starts up straight away
   14.16>14.21 tick over. (1500 rpm).
   14.43v  2500rpm.
   14.45>14.5 5000rpm.
 ignition off battery showing 13.9v dropping to 13.25 after 5 mins
 ignition on battery showing 12.5v dropping to 11.98v holding.
 9.97v starting the bike.
 14.17v soon as bike starts.
  what do you think ART

   


Offline Art

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #14 on: 13 November, 2019, 01:48:39 PM »
1) 13.17v after optimate disconnected
2) 11.94v ign on and headlights
3) 9.4v cranking, starts up straight away
4)14.16>14.21 tick over. (1500 rpm).
5) 14.43v  2500rpm.
6) 14.45>14.5 5000rpm.
7) ignition off battery showing 13.9v dropping to 13.25 after 5 mins
8( ignition on battery showing 12.5v dropping to 11.98v holding.

1) Proves the optimate is working although its not the best starting point for testing the battery. Had that initial 13.17v been 12.7v without the battery being charged overnight what effect would that have had on 2) & 3)?
2) Is what I'd expect had 1) been 12.5v
3) Is about .5v less than I'd expected
4), 5) and 6) indicates the charging system is OK, 4) & 5) stator, 6) regulator rectifier
7) The initial 13.9v also indicates the charging system is OK.
8) Like 2) and 3) is a little lower than I'd expect.

Assuming the battery is of the correct fitment (12v, 8Ah, 150A CCA) its probably border line. If the battery is one of the lower specification (12v, 6Ah, 90A CCA) alternatives its probably about what you'd expect.

If it was mine I'd keep it and be mindful a replacement will be required sooner or later
« Last Edit: 13 November, 2019, 02:46:38 PM by Art »

Offline nivek24

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #15 on: 13 November, 2019, 03:16:19 PM »
i will monitor the battery over the winter, i don't use it much with all the salt on our roads,
Art, the battery is the original  yuasa ytz 10s,  rated at 8.5 amps stamped on the casing, so is getting on a bit.