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Offline nivek24

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metallic rattle
« on: 10 November, 2019, 04:36:42 PM »
Hi, i have a 2014 cbf1000 got it 2nd hand at 1000 miles on the clock, i now have 9000, when cold i have this metallic noise from the right hand side a bit like the cam chain tensioner, gets quieter when engine warm up but is still there,
A few week ago at the cafe  same model pulled up and this sounded worse than mine, talking to the owner he never really noticed it been like that from new he said, he had 32000m on his clock, so am i being a bit over the top about the noise or any one had the same noise.
i have been using 10/40, someone said try 5/30

Online ramiller

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #1 on: 10 November, 2019, 07:23:26 PM »
I think they all do it, absolutely nothing to worry about.

Offline Art

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #2 on: 11 November, 2019, 02:46:34 PM »
Should have asked why. Why would a thinner oil be of benefit here?

Mr Honda recommends 10-30 as the EU specification although many use 10-40 because it is more readily available and generally at a favourable price. This is not likely to be an oil issue.
« Last Edit: 11 November, 2019, 02:56:58 PM by Art »

Offline Shed

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #3 on: 11 November, 2019, 03:45:38 PM »
*Originally Posted by Art [+]
Should have asked why. Why would a thinner oil be of benefit here?

Art, I'm assuming here, the 'someone' is suggesting a thinner oil as it will be lower viscosity at lower temperature, thereby flowing throughout the engine more quickly at lower/cold temperature.

Thus doing actually nothing to identify the issue, just merely hiding the rattle noise more quickly than a thicker oil will.  :mfrlol:
« Last Edit: 11 November, 2019, 03:58:02 PM by Shed »

Offline raYzerman

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #4 on: 11 November, 2019, 05:50:31 PM »
I'd tend to think it's normal also, I hear a bit on mine too but I'm sure it's not a problem.  I'll go with Art and say it's not an oil problem, and I'd stick to the 10W40.

Offline Art

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #5 on: 11 November, 2019, 07:54:29 PM »
Shed, that has to be the real deal right there getting the oil to flow and there may be something in a lower viscosity oil initially flowing quicker but I'd guess the time lapse from cold engine to normal operating temperature would be minimal. In my experience its more to do with the engine parts reaching normal operating temperature, specification and saturation rather than the oil but one will normally lead to the other.

Given the service application we're putting our engine oil to and the environment we're running it in I very much doubt there is too much, if any, difference between using a 5-30, 10-30 or 10-40.

Offline Pete S

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #6 on: 11 November, 2019, 08:14:05 PM »
I think that the metallic rattle coming from the engine could be the gear drive on the balance shaft. I had a similar noise and adjusted the gear drive engagement on the balance shaft which I cured it. There is a clamping arrangement at the front of the crankcase at the nearside.This secures the eccentric spindle of the balance shaft. If the clamp is released, it is possible to turn the shaft with a screwdriver to adjust the gear drive engagement. It is best to mark the original position of the shaft and move it in very small increments. This is a very easy job and the Hayne's manual describes it.

Offline Art

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #7 on: 12 November, 2019, 01:21:59 PM »
...and for those not in possession of a Haynes manual the procedure for the MKI (SC58) can be found on page 13.4 of the CBF1000A workshop manual and for the MKII (SC64) on page 12.34 of the CBF 1000F workshop manual.

link https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ukwp6irqru2k12/CBF1000-All.zip?dl=0

edit Note there is a slight difference to the procedure for each model.
« Last Edit: 12 November, 2019, 01:29:07 PM by Art »

Offline nivek24

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #8 on: 12 November, 2019, 04:50:52 PM »
thanks for all the posts, started the bike this morning, outside temp was 2c, the rattling seemed worse behind the clutch cover where the clutch is, i used a long screwdriver on the case with my ear to it while blipping the throttle i am sure was worse from there, the noise does reduce with engine temp.
Also noticed when i first bought the bike how slow engine turns when starting it, it has been like this all the time i have had it, other bikes i have had the starter throws it over fast, i did think when i bought it the battery was on its way out, battery was checked and is ok, so just thought it was how it should be but now i wonder if something on the staterer gears behind the casing could the rattling  problem, bike is on charger all the time its in the garage
Pete, i looked on the near side where balancer shaft is and could not hear anything rattling so left it alone, it certainly from the clutch casing.

Offline raYzerman

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Re: metallic rattle
« Reply #9 on: 12 November, 2019, 05:26:03 PM »
Given you've got 9000 miles on the clock, there shouldn't be anything wrong with the starter clutch, or the starter.  I assume you're starting it in neutral, if so, clutch drag should not be a factor.  Which leaves the battery... a voltage check is fine, but a proper load test would ferret out if the battery is OK.  Separate issue from the noise while running....
None of this is difficult.... I would pull the clutch cover and check for any loose clutch springs/bolts, and take the opportunity to remove the clutch plates, clean them if necessary and give them a good coating of engine oil if they are dry... which can contribute to clutch drag... again, not related to your slow cranking issue if in neutral.  Simply keep track of how the parts are stacked and do the reverse for assembly.

 


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