Stator Suppliers

[Art]

The Electrosport stators are the same, mine came with the tell tale 'Made in China' on the box. Which is why, if I knew then what I know now, I'd opt for what appears to be London stock of a 'Made in China' direct fit stator.

'Made in China' has come a long way. Who remembers the Jap Crap of the 1960's and early 70's?

[vinciebhoy]

I fitted a small volt meter just below the trip reset switches (photo attached) as I knew with the bikes mileage 20563 that there would be a good chance of a stator fail.
For quickness I took the + feed from a connection that I made on the side lights for extra LED lights, this will be slightly less than true battery voltage but still does the same job. The running the voltage settled at 13.6v so when it dropped to 21.1 v I knew I had a problem with charging.

[VanquishedWombat]

Great thanks for the pic and info. I'm thinking of putting in a dual-purpose voltmeter plus 2 x USB charger. Sadly I can't find one that shows cranking voltage. Another option is a plain USB charger point and a bluetooth battery meter linking to the iPhone which 'will' do the cranking check too, but its a tad more to spend.

Dual USB plus voltmeter
https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Waterproof-12v-Dual-USB-Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Plug-Charger-LED-Voltmeter/943847106

Bluetooth battery tester
https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUICKLYNKS-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Analyzer-Measurement/dp/B07MY1B3DY

[vinciebhoy]

Hi, I think that the blue tooth option would give a more accurate reading but it will not be as "in you face" notification that there is a charging problem when your out for a ride, which is the main reason that I would fit a volt meter.

[raYzerman]

Agree an always visible voltmeter is best.... here is one I fitted, wired direct to an always on circuit on my aux. fuse panel.. they aren't perfect, the voltage shows low by 0.3V and the ambient temperature display is off somewhat, but it does have it's own on/off switch on the back... leaving it on, bike off, will drain the battery down as the USB charger is on.
There are several voltmeter types you can get cheap, the trick is how to mount and is the display readable in daylight, and waterproof... perhaps get the blue display... seems better than red to me.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33059217841.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.35f24c6cw2QDAm&algo_pvid=62a2a1bf-aa67-4dba-9e3c-c61082b1da28&algo_expid=62a2a1bf-aa67-4dba-9e3c-c61082b1da28-25&btsid=6c92fa16-81c7-4790-883f-0c229ab3be19&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_10,searchweb201603_52

[Megalomaniac]

Looks like I have joined your club of electrical problems gents :( 56 reg A7 model
Yesterday at work trying to leave the office the bike flat out refused to start. After some push starting and help from a kind gent I  got it running in 2nd gear for less than a minute, when it died in gear while in motion (still in the underground parking lot). Needless to say, after that it was a no-hope situation.

I'll get my breakdown cover to tow it to a garage but I see there's already a lot of content/many threads on this topic so I wanted to summarise and maybe someone can highlight if I've missed anything, as I understand it I need:
1) A new flywheel
2) A new stator
3) Potentially a new rectifier?
4) An oil change

Any word on whether a new battery would be required?
I wanted to also ask about experiences in terms of total cost you experienced for these and whether you had a non-Honda dealer assist or a Honda network dealer only? I'm in the London area so I suspect I'll get fleeced for labour rates :(

[vinciebhoy]

Hi, It will probably be one of the following

1. Battery, but probably not as would have kept running with a push start.
2. Stator.
3> Regulator/Rectifier.

Just Copy the following into your browser and follow the testing procedure of the charging system.

https://bob.ollis-brown.co.uk/manuals/cbf1000/2006-2008-CBF1000-A-18%20BATTERY-CHARGING%20SYSTEM.pdf

Cheers and good luck

[Art]

If the stator has failed you just need to replace that and nothing else. Some like to change the engine oil and filter too but if that's not due then I wouldn't bother, any oil contamination should have been taken care of by the oil filter. HOWEVER, as above, the Charging System needs to be properly tested before throwing your hard earned at it willy nilly fashion. If that testing proves the stator is faulty its a simple enough job requiring little more than a multimeter and the onboard tool kit.

Test the charging system by revving the engine to 2,500 RPM and checking the voltage across the battery terminals. If greater than 13.5v then rev the engine to 5,000 RPM and re-check the voltage across the battery terminals, if less than 14.8v then the charging system is OK. If the voltage across the battery terminals is less than 13.5v at 2,500 RPM or, more than 14.8v at 5,000 RPM then further testing of the Charging System components, terminals and connections is required. This is better explained by following the tests in Electrosport’s generic fault finding flow chart for motorcycle charging systems.

The chart is not specific to CBF 1000’s or Honda but is easy enough to follow and all the testing can be carried out using a simple multimeter. It may help in following the chart to note the Honda CBF 1000 has a permanent magnetic alternator system with less than 4 different colour wires coming from the Regulator Rectifier. The Stator has three yellow wires to Regulator Rectifier which has a red positive output wire and a green negative output wire.

Electrosport’s chart is free to download at https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073

If you don't have a multimeter this one looks to have all the bells and whistles (20A, auto ranging, probes, croc clips, thermometer and a neat little storage bag all for £22.85 delivered https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VC99-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter-Thermometer-Resistance-AC-DC-Auto-Range-w-Bag/293074770579

Happy testings

[Megalomaniac]

Thanks both for your replies and the extra info, greatly appreciated!
I've opened up the link, which is really helpful in identifying the placement of what to test, and I've ordered one of the multimeters you ilnked me to - much better pricing than the ones I saw on Amazon, thanks!

As the bike won't start yet I'll have to check the voltages once the stator is replaced and the bike is running again, and then determine if any of the other components need replacing.

Many thanks again, I'll update once all is sorted

[vinciebhoy]

Finally got my bike charging again!! after 2 Weeks and 2 Days and a cancelled trip to Ireland the correct part has finally arrived.
Regulator for a different bike sent instead of stator, sent it back but supplier didn't order stator until they received wrong part back, they then found that they didn't have a stator and had to order one in from there supplier