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Offline Robo

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Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« on: 07 October, 2015, 08:18:59 PM »
Some have asked for this...

There are many ways to do this and there is a Manual to help you out.

But this is how I replace my Fork oil.

The tools needed are .

5mm Allen key.
8mm socket/spanner .
8mm Allen key.
12mm socket/spanner.
14mm socket/spanner.
22mm socket/spanner.
24mm socket/spanner.
Tape measure with a bit of insulating tape.
Torch.
Rubber hammer.
Bucket.

PLEASE NOTE my bike is stripped down for on going work. You can do all this with the bike untouched

The first thing to do is to loosen the top fork nut. 24MM spanner/socket.



Loosen both the bottom clamps each side. 12mm spanner/socket



Then loosen the wheel axle nut but don’t remove it.



Now make the bike safe so when you remove the front end it doesn’t topple over. I use a few bricks and a bit of wood, a jack under the exhausts or weighing the rear end will do also, what ever you have or feel happy with.



Unbolt and remove the calipers mounts 12mm socket/spanner. My ones came off without the need to remove the pads but if you need to remove the pads they are held in with the 8mm pad pin at the bottom of the caliper.




Don’t let the brakes hang down on the brake pipes. Tie them up, hang them from the mirrors/bars. My bike is stripped down without fairing Etc, so I hung my ones here. you also need to remove the brake pipes from the rear of the forks mounted on the mudguard, 8mm socket/spanner. I cable tie the right side bolt in situ just to keep the two brake pipes together.




Once the nut is half way off I tap the axle through a little bit, remove the nut then I get a screwdriver on the other end and pull the axle free.




Now the wheel is removed, note which way the spacers are and don't loose them.
Remove the mudguard bolt 5mm socket/spanner.drop the mudguard down and pull forward through the forks. Discard the mudguard.



Now all you will have are the forks hanging from the yokes.
Loosen the top Allen bolt and bottom bolt but don’t take them out of the yoke clamps.

8mm Allen key



14mm socket/spanner



The forks will just drop out so don’t let them go. Do one at a time and hold the fork leg.
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..



Now you have the forks off and away from the bike.

Unscrew the top nut ,this should be loose as described earlier.
When you undo the 24mm nut and it is free from the fork stanchion it is held in by the fork damping rod.you have to place a 14mm spanner under the top cap to hold the damping rod nut. The top cap unscrews from the damping rod. A photo later will show you more.
Once you have the top nut off just turn the forks upside down and let the old oil drain into a bucket.sometimes it smells like cat piss.
I place a long extension bar in a vice and hang my forks from there.

Go have a cup of tea. It doesn’t take very long for all the oil to drain out, the longer the better.I left mine over night as I was doing about three jobs at once.



Clean all the parts what are below and put aside.



Now all the old oil has drained from the forks it’s time to fill them up with fresh new oil. I use this Rock oil 15w.

The OEM weight is 10w



1 liter is enough with a little to spare, but if you spill some you will need more.
This is what is left over from a 1 Liter bottle.



To fill the oil up place the fork on a level surface, I use the floor.
Start to pour some in from the bottle.
When you think you may have enough oil, hold the bottom of the fork and pump up and down the stanchion(chrome leg) you will here the oil sucking, do it slow otherwise you will be spilling oil from the top.
I grab the damping rod to speed this up, the damping rod has tiny holes in it’s length and you can see the oil spurting from its holes when lifting it up and down.
You need all the air out...



Get the torch and look in the top of the fork. Wait until all the air has died down , you will see it fizzing if air is there.
Now I use my cut up tape measure. The fork level is 129mm from the top of the stanchion.
I have marked this with insulation tape on my level. There is enough tape so the level can rest/sit on the top of the stanchion.
Just take your time and get the level correct. You will see the top of the oil touching the bottom of the tape measure, you may have to remove oil or add oil. Just take your time.







Once you have the correct amount of oil and you are happy its time to fit the spring, washer and spacer.

The OEM spring goes in tight coils to the bottom( first.) The parts laid out are in order of replacement with top cap to finish.

   
……………………………………………………………………………………………………………...............................

Now I do a slight modification…

I don’t bother with progressive springs as I add a spacer, this is what was done before progressive springs were on the market.sort of old school.
My spacer is 23mm long with a 2mm washer. The same diameter as the Honda spacer sleeve.
I make these myself.

These fit on top of the Honda parts.



Honda Parts.



Added parts on top of Honda Parts



Now its time to bolt up.

The OEM parts are easy to screw together. the top cap can be fitted just by using your hands.but you will need to tighten the Damper nut to the top cap by using the spanner as in picture.

Make sure you have the damper rod sticking out/up when you place the spacer and washer on.
If it falls down into the stanchion you can get it if your fingers are long and thin or use a pair of long nose pliers.



The top two parts under the top cap are the added bits,(my mod) but you can see the 14mm spanner under the top cap, this is the same way to undo it.



With the added extra parts it is harder to bolt up, due to the lack of room. you need to place a lot of pressure on the top cap to get it into the stanchion thread and bolt it down.



When you start to refit the bike its all the same in reverse but make sure you put the correct fork in the correct side of the yokes.. look at the inside of the fork leg.

Left or right..?



Also put the wheel spacers in the correct sides.

Someones asked if doing this affects the handle bar alignment..  NO.

Hope it all makes sense. 

Remember this is my way.   :028:
« Last Edit: 08 October, 2015, 06:12:23 PM by Robo »
If theres a gap i can get through it !!!

Some people pay for an IAM... I am mad.....

Offline Bifferman

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #1 on: 07 October, 2015, 09:08:16 PM »
Brilliant :152:, even the cow pox has gone from the forks :002:.  Now all you have to do is put them back together again.

Thank you for doing this, I will find it very useful.

Andy
 :149:

p.s. Another favourite saved.
« Last Edit: 07 October, 2015, 09:16:51 PM by Bifferman »

Offline hondacbf

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #2 on: 07 October, 2015, 11:27:25 PM »
Nice one Robo, thankyou for sharing this.

Offline Westbury71

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #3 on: 08 October, 2015, 12:16:24 AM »
 :460: :062: Superb set of instructions that I am certain I and many others will use! Thank you. 

Offline Montblanc

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #4 on: 08 October, 2015, 05:59:53 AM »
Thanks Robo. Great technical article. Should be added to the collection.
Montblanc

Offline Biker Mike

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #5 on: 08 October, 2015, 06:14:06 AM »
 :028:
 :460:

Offline richardcbf

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #6 on: 08 October, 2015, 08:50:36 AM »
Nice one Robo  :028:
I wish I had the chance/need to do the mileage and a suitable place (and tools) to do more bike diy stuff....

How often (time) and/or at what mileage intervals do you find the need to change the fork oil and what are the symptoms?

How long should be allowed by the average person to do the job first time?

Would you do it for others (time permitting) at your place and if so how many beers (or pints equivalent) would you charge?
(No one ever said on their deathbed, "Gee, I wish I had spent more time alone with my computer." Danielle Berry.) http://hmpg.net/

Offline Ardi

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #7 on: 08 October, 2015, 09:57:55 AM »
Brilliant  :047: :047: :047:

Offline Robo

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #8 on: 08 October, 2015, 10:59:56 AM »
Thanks chaps, glad it is of some use and it all makes sense.

*Originally Posted by richardcbf [+]
Nice one Robo  :028:
I wish I had the chance/need to do the mileage and a suitable place (and tools) to do more bike diy stuff....

I have a large tool selection and can pick from many tools but you really don't need many special tools to maintain the CBF, only when you start to play with the engine internals.

How often (time) and/or at what mileage intervals do you find the need to change the fork oil and what are the symptoms?

I don't think mileage matters. I think road conditions , bumps ETC come in to it.When I feel the front feeling limp I change the oil, for me I do it yearly,same as the coolant.

How long should be allowed by the average person to do the job first time?

Depends if you have two left hands !.If you can take the wheel off, remove the forks. Don't rush or panic. changing the oil is easy, the hard bit is not over filling with oil as you have to remove it. If I over fill the oil I use the tape measure and dip it in the oil,then wipe tape clean until the level is correct.
I think if you had never done anything like this before, had all the tools with you and can use them, I would say not rushing allow all morning into late afternoon,with a few tea breaks . but why rush, make it fun to do.


Would you do it for others (time permitting) at your place and if so how many beers (or pints equivalent) would you charge?

YES I would but this could be done any where outside if dry. BUT the fun would be you doing it with me helping/watching. that way you learn.
It's a straight forward job, never thought how much to charge anyone, I'm not a Dealer,  open to offers.helping is more enjoyable than money.
I will always help someone.I will travel in my van with all tools,just cover my Diesel. or help someone over the phone.or ride to me.



 :028:
If theres a gap i can get through it !!!

Some people pay for an IAM... I am mad.....

Offline Bifferman

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Re: Fork oil Refresh with a slight Modification.
« Reply #9 on: 08 October, 2015, 05:26:54 PM »
*Originally Posted by richardcbf [+]
Nice one Robo  :028:
I wish I had the chance/need to do the mileage and a suitable place (and tools) to do more bike diy stuff....

How often (time) and/or at what mileage intervals do you find the need to change the fork oil and what are the symptoms?

How long should be allowed by the average person to do the job first time?

Would you do it for others (time permitting) at your place and if so how many beers (or pints equivalent) would you charge?

Feck off and join the queue.