Author Replacing neutral switch  (Read 7975 times)

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  • Offline Shamone

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    Offline Shamone

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    Replacing neutral switch
    on: 07 May, 2013, 09:27:31 pm
    07 May, 2013, 09:27:31 pm
    Looking to replace the neutral switch on my new biffer. Suffering from poor starting when the side stand is down - checking the resistance to ground and it's about 10KOhm and fluctuates wildly.

    Checking the manual Honda advice to remove the engine. After searching on the forum some have managed this with the engine in place.

    Had a good look and you can hardly even see the switch....any tips?

  • Offline Robo

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #1 on: 07 May, 2013, 09:42:47 pm
    07 May, 2013, 09:42:47 pm
    Are you 100% it's the neutral switch.

    Have you checked the side stand switch and clutch switch.

    A faulty neutral switch only stops the green light from working.

    But if you are sure and want to take it on you can do this without removing the engine.

    The side stand switch is held on with a 8mm bolt on the back of the stand and is easy to check for crud etc
    Clutch switch is only cheap too,check the wires.

  • Offline Nuff   gb

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    Offline Nuff

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #2 on: 07 May, 2013, 09:45:03 pm
    07 May, 2013, 09:45:03 pm
     :0461: make sure it is the neutral switch first!

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #3 on: 07 May, 2013, 10:45:48 pm
    07 May, 2013, 10:45:48 pm
    Yes defo the neutral switch. If you look at the rough drawing below you can see that there are 2 options for the starter relay and ECM to get a ground.

    1. If the gearbox is in neutral, the neutral switch provides the ground for ECM pin 27 and the starter relay (though the clutch diode). No need for the clutch switch to be activated and the side stand can be down (open).

    2. If the gearbox is in gear (neutral switch open) the side stand has to provide the path to ground so be in the up position (closed) with the clutch switch activated.

    It starts and runs perfectly with the side stand up (closed) and clutch activated (closed), but with the side stand down (open) it is forced to used the neutral switch as the path to ground and struggles to start. Measuring with a multimeter has confirmed the switch is giving high resistance when closed. Also the neutral light flickers slightly - it also uses the same switch. Both diodes measure correctly.


  • Offline gedspeed   england

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #4 on: 07 May, 2013, 11:37:33 pm
    07 May, 2013, 11:37:33 pm
    Just to be 100% sure, by pass the neutral switch, the neutral light should be firm, and starting should be good, if not look elsewhere.

    Ged

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #5 on: 08 May, 2013, 12:06:20 am
    08 May, 2013, 12:06:20 am
    Bugger. Do a search there's two or three threads on the forum (I don't remember when/where and don't have time to find them just now) from members who have had the neutral switches changed. They can hopefully shed more light on the procedure than the majority of us who don't even know where the bloody thing is.

  • Offline richardcbf   england

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    Offline richardcbf

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #6 on: 08 May, 2013, 08:40:57 am
    08 May, 2013, 08:40:57 am
    *Originally Posted by Breeze [+]
    :087: Got a shock this morning, talked to dealer about a fortnight ago, told him about the Neutral light not illuminating when engine hot, or sometimes flickering all the time when in Neutral. Fine he said we`ll order you a new switch. It arrived and I said can we do it Saturday, yes he said not be a big job. Anyway the mechanic came back into the office, can`t find it he say`s, looks at " Honda how to do on the computer " can`t believe that he say`s you`ve gotta take the engine out!!!!! So there`s a few of them put their heads together and by removing half the frame and one side they managed to replace this Neutral light switch (1 inch in length) no adjustment on these baby`s, an hour and a half of struggling and they did manage it without taking it out . Good for warranties.
    *Originally Posted by robo [+]
    My neutral light went through a stage of going out when in gear but then coming back on when i was riding in high gears.

    I tried to find the switch and found it tucked up topside at the back of the Engine.

    My one started to work OK again after i gave it a wack with a long screwdriver.

    Why do Honda place a switch in a place where the engine has to be removed.

    Maybe Honda think a switch won't fail, But when it does and your bike is out of warranty how much labour will that cost for a ten bob switch.

    There isn't much that holds the Engine in but that ain't the point.

    What happened to neutral switch's by the front sprocket?

    And fair play to the fitter that got your one out.
    Nearly engine out today 19 April, 2008
    https://www.cbf1000.com/index.php/topic,3621.msg41173.html#msg41173

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #7 on: 08 May, 2013, 08:47:37 am
    08 May, 2013, 08:47:37 am
    My one started to work OK again after i gave it a wack with a long screwdriver.

    Might try that first lol

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    Offline Shamone

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #8 on: 08 May, 2013, 08:48:33 am
    08 May, 2013, 08:48:33 am
    *Originally Posted by gedspeed [+]
    Just to be 100% sure, by pass the neutral switch, the neutral light should be firm, and starting should be good, if not look elsewhere.

    Ged

    Thanks Ged, will give that a try at lunchtime and report back.

  • Offline Robo

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    Re: Replacing neutral switch
    Reply #9 on: 08 May, 2013, 11:33:17 am
    08 May, 2013, 11:33:17 am
    Hope giving it a wack with a  screwdriver sorts it out.

    I can't even remember posting that comment,must have been back in 2007.

    But  I do remember the neutral light was flickering when in neutral but it didn't cause any problems with running/starting etc.

    Also I remember giving it a tap with a big screwdriver. never had a problem since.