Author Topic: Valve adjustment  (Read 8368 times)

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Offline bross

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Valve adjustment
on: 18 April, 2011, 12:41:46 AM
I followed Fred's (FireBladerDk) excellent write-up

to check the valve clearances on my 2008 CBF1000 at 25,000kms and found 4 of the valves out of spec, on the tight side. All out of spec valves were on cylinder #4. You can see the measurements in my other thread.,10605.msg137036#msg137036

Please have the service manual to refer to as this is just my photo record and shouldn't be trusted as how to do it. Basically, you break it, you bought it and all those other disclaimers.

You'll see a link below all the pics, this will open the original large photo if you want to see more detail.

First step is to align the cams so the index mark is at the 6 o'clock position and the cams are aligned with "IN" and "EX" aligned with the head.

remove the 2 cam chain guide bolts (9 lbs-ft torque when installing and use locktite)

then tie up the cam chain so it doesn't fall into the motor.

Next remove the cam chain tensioner. Do not bother buying the Honda tool (07ZMG-MCAA400) as it does not fit the CBF tensioner. It is too long to engage or lock the tensioner in the retracted position. You can simply remove the 2 tensioner bolts and remove the tensioner from the engine. Installation is simply using a thin flat blade screwdriver to wind and hold the tensioner in the retracted position while you insert and snug the 2 bolts.

There are 3 camshaft holders that need to be unbolted, a Left (Camshaft Holder B), Right (Camshaft Holder A) and a narrow holder called "Camshaft Holder C". The bolts should be loosened in a crisscross pattern a little at a time to avoid cracking or damaging the holder. The holders are labelled with an "L" for left, "R" for right so you can't mix them up. The holders also have all the bolt holes numbered in the proper tightening sequence. There are 3 different bolts used; long, short, and those with a sealing washer. Basically the inner bolts on the left and right holder use a sealing washer, while the exhaust side use the long bolts and the intake side use the short bolts.

inside bolts with sealing washers

be very careful removing the bolts with the sealing washers, I dropped one into the motor and because they're copper you can't retrieve with a magnetic tool. I used a dab of 'Goop" on the end of the magnetic tool to fish out the washer. You've been warned.

Exhaust, Intake and inside bolts

bolt tightening sequence numbers, you can also see the "L" and "R" markings

check the condition and make sure the o-rings are seated in the camshaft holders, look for any scoring where the cams ride

The camshaft holders were on snugly and I couldn't move them by hand, I ended up using a screw driver, very gingerly to pry slightly up on the holders. What you don't see in the pictures is a folded rag I had between the screwdriver and the head so I didn't damage the gasket sealing surface. It didn't take much to loosen the holders.

ready to pull the cams

sorry for the blurry pic, but you may have to tilt the intake cam slightly to remove the cam chain. Lift the cam from the left side and you can then slide the cam chain off

intake cam out and showing the buckets and the magnetic tool I used to pull the bucket out of the head

bucket and shim

another magnetic tool to retrieve the shim from the bucket

magnetic tools used

shim removed

new shim installed

measuring the original shim

both cams out

cams are labeled so you can't mix them up

buckets galore

use the following formula to calculate the new shim thickness
A = (B - C) + D
A: new shim thickness
B: recorded valve clearance
C: specified valve clearance
D: old shim thickness

once you have replaced all the out of spec shims it's time to re-install the cams. Just reverse the process of taking the cams out but make sure you align the "IN" and "EX" marks with the edge of the head again. This ensures the timing is correct. I installed the exhaust cam first and it was easy to align the "EX" mark as I had lots of play in the cam chain but it took a few tries to juggle with the chain and rotate the Intake cam until I had the "IN" mark lined up properly.

Install the camshaft holders and finger tighten all the bolts, then start slowly tightening the bolts in the numbered sequence a little at a time until you have torqued them all to the required 9 lb-ft. My lb-ft torque wrench is not accurate at that little torque so I used my lb-in small wrench instead and torqued to 108 lb-in.

Install the cam chain tensioner. I used a thin flat blade screw driver to wind the tensioner clockwise to retract the tensioner, then holding the tensioner body and the screwdriver to keep it retracted re-install the tensioner into the engine and get the bolts finger tight before letting go of the screwdriver. Now tighten the bolts on the tensioner.

Recheck your valve clearances before installing the cam cover.

One trick I learned working on my BMW boxer to make sure you don't get weeping from a cam cover was to make sure the cam cover gasket is completely free of oil before re-installing.

One old spark plug and a new Iridium ready to go in. I just wanted regular plugs but the Iridiums ended up being cheaper, so the CBF gets the good plugs this time.  :002:

At this point I'll point you back to Fred's articles on buttoning the top end back up. Install your new spark plugs and fresh anti freeze and your bikes good for another 24k.
Last Edit: 27 April, 2011, 06:35:10 PM by bross


Offline FireBladerDk

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #1 on: 18 April, 2011, 07:14:57 AM
Hi bross,

fantastic nice work you have done - and with lots of detailed pics.

Here are -> 2 POINTS <- for the teaser in the other thread and another -> 10 POINTS <- for this DIY contribution!

Having already received your authorization via PM, I will asap add your work to our CBF1000 on-line service manual on

 :031: ... Fred
Last Edit: 18 April, 2011, 07:18:39 AM by FireBladerDk


Offline Snibor

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #2 on: 18 April, 2011, 08:17:37 AM
Hi bross, a very interesting article and a job well done, great stuff. I wonder what Mr Honda would charge for such a job?? - Snibor


Offline RogerG

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #3 on: 18 April, 2011, 08:45:22 AM
Hi bross, very impressive  :460:
Every mistake begins with a choice


Offline Bifferman

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #4 on: 18 April, 2011, 12:57:51 PM
Bross, I doff my cap to you :123:

You can have as many official service, Claymer or Haynes manuals as you like but there is NOTHING to beat the experience of someone who has actually done the job.

Thanks for taking the time to share.  This thread is now included in my tech favourites folder.




Offline Danish

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #5 on: 18 April, 2011, 01:01:51 PM
Nice job, Brent, and a lot more details than the manual. I guess you got the timing right. I did the camchain on my cbx750, but it is a little different. The tensioner also was removed like you did, and I had the cams out.

A million flies canīt be wrong


Offline bross

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #6 on: 18 April, 2011, 03:07:25 PM
*Originally Posted by Snibor [+]
Hi bross, a very interesting article and a job well done, great stuff. I wonder what Mr Honda would charge for such a job?? - Snibor
When I couldn't get the cam chain tensioner to work I was getting pretty discouraged and was thinking about rolling the bike onto the trailer and hauling it to my dealer. I called and explained the situation, that I had the bike stripped to the cam covers, how much would it cost to simply swap the out of spec shims? He said the valve job on the CBF was listed as 5 hours and he talked to his mechanic who figured getting the bike in the state it was in would have saved him about an hour so I was quoted $340.

My dealer is over an hour away so it's not so much about the money but convenience or lack of it, and why I try to do all the work on the bikes.


Offline RadMan

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #7 on: 18 April, 2011, 03:29:23 PM
Bravo, great job and thank you for posting!


Offline arizonarocket

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #8 on: 18 April, 2011, 05:29:52 PM
Nice work Bross!

I'll give this DIY a try next time.


AR  :031:


Offline bross

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Re: Valve adjustment
Reply #9 on: 20 April, 2011, 05:06:41 AM
Forgot to mention this ground connection. Quite a few people on the VFR forum have been finding bad/poor/corroded ground connections.

Anyway, before you throw your tank back on, check this connection. I removed it, cleaned the frame with a wire brush and applied dialectric grease to all the ground connections and bolt before re-tightening.

Last Edit: 22 April, 2011, 04:12:12 PM by bross